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New Member

Yahoo Message Number: 10400
Hi

Just discovered this group thanks to a friend/member. In my posession is one 2005 Endura 6340 Gas mh. Bought it a year ago and have gotten some great use out of it. I have a pretty big laundry list of things on it that need fixing. Have found a wealth of information here - thank you for sharing and collaborating. I know that the last thing we feel like doing is taking pics and documenting all the steps after a long project. I was wondering if anyone has found a good source for the corner moldings that go around the steps on the entry way to the coach. The plastic ones on mine are falling apart and I'd like to replace it with heavier duty aluminum. Any info appreciated!

Also, if any of you GS Endura owners have the need for the "Endura"
decal that goes on the outside of the coach, I have a source now (since I could not get them from GS).

Thanks,
Dave

Re: New Member

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10401
When I did the flooring in my Endura I got some Aluminum edging from Home Depot. You can see some of it in this picture.
http://s35.beta.photobucket.com/user/ronjhall/media/Flooring%20upgrade%20Endura%206340/IMG_1262.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6
While you are looking at that picture you can look at all the other other pictures of my upgrades.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: New Member

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10402
How thick is the laminate that you installed? I have been thinking of pulling the carpet out of mine. My motorhome is mostly used for offroad trips with my jeep, and the light colored carpet is a pain to keep clean. Also how is it installed?

From: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ronjhallsr
Sent: Monday, January 07, 2013 2:27 PM
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] Re: New Member



When I did the flooring in my Endura I got some Aluminum edging from Home Depot. You can see some of it in this picture.
http://s35.beta.photobucket.com/user/ronjhall/media/Flooring%20upgrade%20Endura%206340/IMG_1262.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6
While you are looking at that picture you can look at all the other other pictures of my upgrades.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: New Member

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10403
Thanks - I've since learned that thse molding is actually called "stair nosing" which makes it a whole lot easier to find.

I reviewed your list of mods and I need to do most of that plus a few.
This RV not having dome lights is crazy. Thats my next one. I'd be interested to know if you had to add door jamb switches and what dome light you selected. Ive seen a few off of Tahoes/Silverados.
I'd like wire it to the headlamp switch as well.

Thanks again,

Dave L

Re: New Member

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10404
The flooring is Allure sold at Home Depot. It floating and requires no backing or underlayment. Just need a flat surface. Then trim it out with 1/2X 3/4" molding. You can see it it my pictures.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: New Member

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10405
My dome lights are wired to coach. But when I pulled down the headliner found a wire that was shorted out. Turns out it was the dome light wire supplied by GM.
I used the lights that were over the bed for dome lights. They worked OK But I use screws that were to long. I fixed it but was kind of embarrassed that I did it.
Best place to mount dome lights would be off box that is just above center of windshield. The Tahoe/Silverado lights would be a good idea. I believe you will find the doors already have a switch. If you have not checked out the wiring diagrams available for out trucks. Go to the GM Up fitter site for all kinds of info on our chassis. Including electrical drawings.
http://www.gmupfitter.com/body_builder_manuals.html
Best
Ron Hall

Re: New Member

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10407
As many of us know the 06 and prior had the back up monitor is mounted in the drivers visor. A totally worthless place for it. I found and ordered from an EBay seller the box, bracket along with a monitor from him for cents on the dollar and relocated the monitor. In doing that the dome light had to be relocated as well. I purchased a round 2 inch white LED light from Camping World and installed it just aft of the monitor. I used the wiring from the dome light as the wire was long enough not to have to splice. Being LED its brighter as well. It works with the doors and the dimmer switch as normal.

Re: New Member

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10410
I looked all over but didnt see any door switches. I havent removed the door panel yet to see if they're inside or not. If its the standard door jamb style, then they arent there. Thanks for the link to the upfitter page. Great info.

Dave..

Re: New Member

Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10424

I really like all of the improvements, it looks great. I have a question, how did you get the Love Seat and Chair out of the motorhome? We really would like to get some comfortable chairs.

Re: New Member

Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10426
I forgot to mention the flooring is 3/16" thick.
The chair came out by removing bolts into floor. Nuts were in the compartment below chair.
There are a few screws holding couch/love seat. When you get it out in center of room. You will find that back comes off. Along with ends. Even then it was hard to get out of door. In the end it ended up in the Tuesday morning trash.
Best
Ron Hall

New Member

Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10598
Hello To All,

Just a post to introduce myself to the group.

In the fall we purchased a used 2005 Gulf Stream Endura with the Duramax Diesel (19K miles on it). My wife and I drag race and thought this would be perfect for towing our 24' enclosed trailer.

We bought it last fall it from St Louis RV, flew out and picked it up. Drove it back from there and have made one long distance trip to Arkansas and back in the fall to see my relatives. Also made one trip to the track last fall with it.

So far the only problem has been a intermittant brake light switch, that was easily replaced. I also added a sway bar to the front end that has made a world of difference in the way it handles.

Hope we can pick everyones brains on here and find out more about this chassis/engine combo.

So hello to everyone...

Steven Kerns
Kutztown, PA
(Just north of Reading, PA)

Re: New Member

Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10600
Hi Steven, Welcome to the group, and to "Super C" motorhomes. Many of us have upgraded our chassis. I went the front stabilizer, rear trac bar, extra rear springs route for better handling while towing - But the best thing I did was put on a set of Koni shocks. Others in the group also have said that it really helped them.

George

Re: New Member

Reply #13 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10601
Welcome to the Forum. My Endura is the 2004 6340 model. Been a great MH.
The brake switch is easy to fix. Most common problem is that brake controller is wired to brake switch. Check out Bulletin 66 for proper wiring. http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull66.pdf . The blue wire is located on inside of passenger side frame rail. Look in near rear of passenger step.
Ask questions. Someone will answer.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: New Member

Reply #14 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10602
Looking in the archives on the Yahoo Group is helpful too.

Welcome the Kodiak group.

Be well,

~
Victor - KI6IM
Kodiak Diesel Dutchmen 34H Bunkhouse

From: Steven
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 6:38 AM
Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] New Member


Hello To All,

Just a post to introduce myself to the group.

In the fall we purchased a used 2005 Gulf Stream Endura with the Duramax Diesel (19K miles on it). My wife and I drag race and thought this would be perfect for towing our 24' enclosed trailer.

We bought it last fall it from St Louis RV, flew out and picked it up. Drove it back from there and have made one long distance trip to Arkansas and back in the fall to see my relatives. Also made one trip to the track last fall with it.

So far the only problem has been a intermittant brake light switch, that was easily replaced. I also added a sway bar to the front end that has made a world of difference in the way it handles.

Hope we can pick everyones brains on here and find out more about this chassis/engine combo.

So hello to everyone...

Steven Kerns
Kutztown, PA
(Just north of Reading, PA)

Re: New Member

Reply #15 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10603
Excellent point on the brake switch - many people improperly wired their brake controller directly to the brake switch and not via the pre-wired brake controller lines found the bodybuilder guide.

Be well,

~
Victor - KI6IM
Kodiak Diesel Dutchmen 34H Bunkhouse

From: ronjhallsr
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2013 7:15 AM
Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] Re: New Member


Welcome to the Forum. My Endura is the 2004 6340 model. Been a great MH.
The brake switch is easy to fix. Most common problem is that brake controller is wired to brake switch. Check out Bulletin 66 for proper wiring. http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull66.pdf . The blue wire is located on inside of passenger side frame rail. Look in near rear of passenger step.
Ask questions. Someone will answer.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: New Member

Reply #16 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10604
Steven wrote:

Quote
Hello To All,

Welcome to the group! You'll find answers to about anything you run into
here since it seems someone has had the problem before you. He'd too
modest to admit it, but Ron Hall is THE MAN when it comes to upgrades,
information, knowledge, etc....he can probably cook too, I don't know :-)

You'll enjoy the rig, just be sure your tow capacity is matched to your
big trailer and dragster.

Greg

Re: New Member

Reply #17 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10606
Thanks Ron!

I will check it out, it came with an older controller on it and I thought about upgrading it to one of the newer proportional controllers.

Another problem I have is that my trailer has a power jack on it that was powered thru the trailer connector, but it will not work with the Endura. I checked and I don't have +12V power where it should be on the connector. When hooked up to my F350 Dually it works just fine.

Maybe this is related...

Thanks for the link!

Steve

Re: New Member

Reply #18 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10607
George,

Can you give me more info on the trac bar, springs and Konis.

Mfgr of the trac bars & springs would be helpful if you have them handy..

Thanks

Steve

Re: New Member

Reply #19 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10608
And whatever you do Steven, DON'T try to read all of Ron's posts at one time.

I find whenever I read a lot of his posts I'm totally exhausted from just thinking about all the work he has done.

Don

Re: New Member

Reply #20 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10609
On 2/6/2013 3:39 PM, Don Leslie wrote:

Quote
And whatever you do Steven, DON'T try to read all of Ron's posts at one
time.

I find whenever I read a lot of his posts I'm totally exhausted from
just thinking about all the work he has done.

Yeah, better to just drive to his house and drop off the rig for
upgrades :-)

Greg

Re: New Member

Reply #21 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10610
You guy need to give Steven some time to absorb one item at a time. But that we have his attention. The Jayco Seneca guys have spent a lot of money on their suspensions. Because Jayco did not do any of the upgrades. GS did not put the upgrades on until 2006 as standard equipment. You can tell if you have it by looking at front sway bar. It is a 2" square bar that be see by looking a front of hood from about 10' back. The upgrade is 2 1/2". Tires and shocks if they have not been replaced should be done soon. I installed Bilstein shocks with great results. You will find lots of information on different model Super C's in the file section. Including the sale brochures for 2004 to 2007 Endura's.
One of the first items I would recommend is a build sheet for your chassis. Any GM dealer should be able to get that for you. You can join Diesel Place and ask for a build sheet. But you have to be there for awhile to get one. If you want, one of us older members can get it for you if you send us your VIN #. It will tell you a lot about your Kodiak. You will also find the RPO codes on a label behind driver sun visor.
You will find the missing wire for the jack in the same bundle as the blue wire for brake controller. You may have a blown fuse for wire. Fuse will be under a panel on passenger dash. Requires a 10mm socket to remove. Not sure about a 2005. But my 2004 has circuits breakers instead of fuses.
OK enough for now. That should keep you busy for now.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: New Member

Reply #22 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10611
Ron,

Thanks for the information so far. I have learned more in the last day than the last three months we have owned the Endura.

My MH did not have a front sway bar when I received it so I assume it is pre 2006. I did add an aftermarket sway bar kit shortly after I bought it. My mechanic said the tire codes showed the tires are less than a year old, so I am good there. I will replace the shocks before the Spring. I am also in the process of having DRC build a custom hitch system. The original is rated for 10K but I do not like the way it is constructed. You can check out DRE here - http://drcraceproducts.com/index.html ( I have no affiliation with DRE except as a customer ).

Other items high on the list is; to replace the headlights and install a air horn. And the list goes on and on....

Steve

Re: New Member

Reply #23 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10612
Unless you want to go with HID's get SilverStars low beams and install 10 gauge ground wire. Then align headlights. Big difference it lighting.
Does your MH have a exhaust brake in exhaust pipe or does it have turbo brake? Better way to ask, do you have a factory compressor?
Best
Ron Hall

Re: New Member

Reply #24 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10613
I also have a 2005 Endura 6316 with a Duramax, also tow a 24' enclosed trailer with a stocker in it. I have put 30,000 kms on it towing and after a few minor upgrades, it works quite well. Biggest improvement was a set of Koni's. I also put air bags on it, more to level it up than anything else but they also improved the handling some more. I run load range G tires on it, 90 in the front, 100 in the rears when towing. On the west coast, the exhaust brake is a must (look for an air tank and compressor under the driver's side step).
One thing to watch for, GS extended the frame about 2' on the 6316. Check the welds, the guy that did the welding on ours needed a few more lessons, it was pretty scary when you consider the hitch is attached to the extension. I had one of the welders at work redo ours, feel a little safer now.

Jim Mantle
Black Creek, BC

From: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Steven
Sent: February-06-13 6:38 AM
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] New Member



Hello To All,

Just a post to introduce myself to the group.

In the fall we purchased a used 2005 Gulf Stream Endura with the Duramax Diesel (19K miles on it). My wife and I drag race and thought this would be perfect for towing our 24' enclosed trailer.

We bought it last fall it from St Louis RV, flew out and picked it up. Drove it back from there and have made one long distance trip to Arkansas and back in the fall to see my relatives. Also made one trip to the track last fall with it.

So far the only problem has been a intermittant brake light switch, that was easily replaced. I also added a sway bar to the front end that has made a world of difference in the way it handles.

Hope we can pick everyones brains on here and find out more about this chassis/engine combo.

So hello to everyone...

Steven Kerns
Kutztown, PA
(Just north of Reading, PA)

Re: New Member

Reply #25 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10614
Jim,

Prior to buying it I did not know they put exhaust brakes on these, when we went out to inspect it prior to purchase I was delighted to find it had an exhause brake system! It does make driving with a trailer much easier!

I plan to start with the Koni shock and go from there. I have installed a front sway bar and it made a world of difference. I guess every piece helps.

I will have DRC check the welds you mentioned when they install the custom witch system.

Thank for your input it is very much appreciated!

Steve



Re: New Member

Reply #26 –
Yahoo Message Number: 10616
Ron,

Will go with the HIDs, I believe it has the brake in the exhaust. Yes it has a air compressor, is the air used to activate the brake?

Steve