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Topic: Jayco Greyhawk 33DS Endcap Repair (Read 662 times) previous topic - next topic
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Jayco Greyhawk 33DS Endcap Repair

Yahoo Message Number: 635
I repaired the roadside endcap separation this afternoon. Thanks again to Greg for the eyewitness description of the process.
The stock screws are 1" no. 8 self-drilling screws (severely undersized for the job). I replaced the lower 12 screws and added 2 additional at the very bottom for insurance (14 in all). The replacements were 3" sheet-metal screws. I used ten, no. 10's down to the bottom 4 locations and then switched to no. 12's. Before installing the screws I drilled the holes (through 3 more layers of aluminum) with a 1/8" drill and filled them with sealant. I also squirted sealant from the bottom into the separated area. The big screws all went in with no problems and pulled separation gap at the bottom closed. The plastic trim strip went back into the channel easily until I got to the bottom where it wraps around underneath and gets tucked it back in. This brings us to handyman tip no. 1 which is try not to do this job in COLD weather as the plastic strip gets stiff and doesn't want to bend.
Pictures are uploaded to the group and links are below.
Bill
http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/KodiakChassisClassC/photos/view/2eaf?b=20&m=f&o=0
http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/KodiakChassisClassC/photos/view/2eaf?b=21&m=f&o=0
http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/KodiakChassisClassC/photos/view/2eaf?b=22&m=f&o=0

Re: Jayco Greyhawk 33DS Endcap Repair

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 636
Bill wrote:

Quote
I repaired the roadside endcap separation this afternoon. Thanks again
to Greg for the eyewitness description of the process.

Great news Bill, looks like the job went well. The one inch screws
really seem undersized for the job, hopefully with the number of
problems we've seen, Jayco will get the hint that something isn't right.

Take care,
Greg

Re: Jayco Greyhawk 33DS Endcap Repair

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 653
I went and bought 14 2-inch #10 Stainless Steel sheet metal screws to
do the end cap repair on my 07 32SS Kodiak Jayco. Now I have a
question or two for you guys that have done this. I know that a
dealer fixed one for someone (Gregg ?) and it was stated that Jayco
told them what to use. I am just wondering if you really need to go
to a 3 inch screw. The original is 1 inch (#8), and we know it
didn't work. However, doesn't it appear that 2 inches should be
enough? I guess I am concerned about the screw going in "too" deep.
Anyway, I just thought a #10 one inch longer would be OK.

Also, do I need to put any more "butyl" tape in that area before
using the new screws? I am going to put some sealer in each hole and
then put a little over the "screw heads" before putting the vinyl
trim strip back in.

, Greg Gimlick
wrote:
Quote
Bill wrote:

I repaired the roadside endcap separation this afternoon. Thanks
again to Greg for the eyewitness description of the process.

Great news Bill, looks like the job went well. The one inch screws
really seem undersized for the job, hopefully with the number of
problems we've seen, Jayco will get the hint that something isn't
right.

Re: Jayco Greyhawk 33DS Endcap Repair

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 654
smokie39157 wrote:

Quote
I went and bought 14 2-inch #10 Stainless Steel sheet metal screws to
do the end cap repair on my 07 32SS Kodiak Jayco.

I think that will be plenty. Although the dealer said the screws were
three inches they looked more like 2 1/2 to me when I watched the guy
put them in and they bit into something solid before they were very far
in. I would use the shorter ones and if they didn't hold, then go to the
longer versions. I think two inches will be enough from what I saw the
day they did mine.

They did not put more butyl tape on mine because they didn't want to
pull the endcap off further than it already was. They did shoot some
caulking into the inside from underneath as that was where they could
get to it the best. I would say most of it squeezed back out when the
endcap drew in tight.

Quote
I guess I am concerned about the screw going in "too" deep.
Anyway, I just thought a #10 one inch longer would be OK.

I think you'll be fine. I questioned the dealer when they did mine
because they didn't go inside and look to see if they had enough depth
to work with or not. Apparently it was okay because everything seems
fine. I don't have a lot of faith in my dealership's maintenance
department so I stand over things while they do them. If the owner gets
involved I don't have any problem with them, but the former service
manager (owner's bro-in-law) was a hack and recently left to take a job
with a huge dealer out in the mountains.

Take care,
Greg
2007 Jayco Greyhawk 32SS
History: 2005 Jayco Jayflight 31FKS
1997 Prowler 26H
1984 Prowler 24P
1976 Minnie Winnie 24
1976 Coachman pop-up

Re: Jayco Greyhawk 33DS Endcap Repair

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 655
Smokie,

I did a lot of ponderin' on all this before I finally tackled the job
(last week). I considered using 2" or 2.5" screws instead of 3" ones.
What finally decided it for me was a drilled depth test with a 1/8" bit
. The bit went in about 2.5" and I hit 3 more layers of metal
(aluminum). I studied the rear of the side wall and couldn't see
anything obvious that might be in the way (electrical, plumbing, etc).
So based on all that and what Greg had said, I decided to go ahead with
3" screws. I'm not sure that a 2" screw would make it to that last metal
layer but then again maybe it's not necessary anyway. I usually tend to
"overbuild" things so this made sense to me.

Another point. I could tell there was a lot of stress in the area
pulling those screws out in the first place. Once I had pulled the 12
screws on the separated side, it was very difficult to push the
separated wall into place. You may even want to get someone to help you
by pushing the separated joint closed before you put the screws in. I
had to push very hard to close up the separation. Greg indicated that he
could observe the screws actually drawing the joint closed but after
what I saw, I didn't want to rely on just the screw threads to pull that
soft aluminum in tight. Don't know if there's any significant
differences between that area of your 32SS and my 33DS but you may not
have the same stress forces pulling the joint apart on your rig.

All I used was a lot of some sealant I got from camping world called
"ProFlex RV" made by Geocel. I talked to the techs there and studied the
specs. It's great stuff and it has a wide temp range for both
application and service. It was about 39 deg when I used it and it
performed well. I filled the drilled holes and made sure it squished out
under the heads. I also squirted as much as I could in the gaps from
below and into the gap on the inside (accessable from underneath the
coach). The next day it was set up firm but still flexible and of course
it's also paintable. Overall the only problem I had was getting the
plastic tape looped back around and re-tucked in from below. Hope this
helps.

Bill

, "smokie39157"
wrote: