Yahoo Message Number: 16273 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16273)
I have my 2009 Seneca 36MS in for oil, filter and fuel filter change to the Chevrolet/GM truck service center in Dallas. I just spoke with the service writer and they claim the ball joints are worn as well as the connecting rod and recommend replacement.
My opinion, based on the rig having been driven only 45K highway miles, that wear of that degree is hard to believe. I am more likely to think the tech is looking for some easy money to do the job.
Comments?
Yahoo Message Number: 16275 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16275)
My 2005 c5500 had a slightly loose ball joint at 40000 miles. Haven't fixed it yet at 50000, but need to. It's making steering a little loose
Yahoo Message Number: 16276 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16276)
There have been several reports of drag link needing replacement recently. The other items could be worn if they have not been greased every 7,500 miles. If that is the case. I would be worried about the king pins.
Take it to a place that specializes in front end. When I needed a front end alignment took it to Fleet Pride.
Best
Ron Hall
Yahoo Message Number: 16278 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16278)
I have to agree that proper grease maintenance is always required to get maximum life out of a piece of wearing/sacrificial metal. I also agree with a second opinion, but if the second opinion says they need replacing, it sounds like you had a good mechanic doing his job.
Smooth Sailing,
Ric Golding
2015 Seneca 37FS
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Yahoo Message Number: 16279 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16279)
If you wanted to know for sure yourself, watch a YouTube video that shows what a loose ball joint looks like, then have the mechanic show you the looseness in your ball joint.
Yahoo Message Number: 16280 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16280)
Another SuperC guy called me and explained how he did it himself. Not a terribly difficult job. At worst I'll have to buy a couple new tools, maybe $100. $200-250 for parts. Total a whole lot cheaper than what the shop quoted: 2,000. Might have to get an alignment but not if I pay attention when I install the new tie rod ends.
Yahoo Message Number: 16281 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16281)
Rock auto.com (http://auto.com) has the cheapest name brand parts. Can probably borrow/rent ball joint press.
Yahoo Message Number: 16282 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16282)
It is the torque amplifier I'm worried about. If I can't get to both with the pickle fork and need to remove a wheel.
Yahoo Message Number: 16283 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16283)
My torque multiplier is a 36 inch pipe over a one inch breaker bar with socket attached. Used it many times on my Kodiak 5500
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Yahoo Message Number: 16284 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16284)
Well, I finally hd time to crawl under the Seneca to check this out.
I can, with some effort, rotate the drag link and the steering link (from LF front to RF). They both seem tight to me. I could detect no movement in either ball arrangement from the twisting or pushing/pulling on the two rods..
Is there something else I should be doing to evaluate this? Maybe have someone turn the wheel from lock to lock while i have my hand on it to detect any movement?
Yahoo Message Number: 16285 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16285)
With tires off the ground, have someone place a large pry bar or pipe under tire and pry up, while you watch the movement