Yahoo Message Number: 7764 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/7764)
I just got a 2006 Jayco Seneca 35GS that my Dad sold me and I have a couple questions.
1. My stepmother plugged the vacuum into one of the inverter supplied outlets and I'm guessing popped the fuse on the inverter. Does anybody know where the inverter is located?
2. Has anybody upgraded the headlights to HID's. If so what kits are you running?
I am sure I will have some more questions after I pick it up this weekend
Thanks
Ronnie
Yahoo Message Number: 7765 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/7765)
The inverter is located in the bedroom at floor level on the drivers side just aft of the fuse and circuit breaker panels. You will find a vent panel. Remove that and it is right there. Hopefully you will only have to reset the breaker on the front.
Denny
Yahoo Message Number: 7766 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/7766)
Welcome Ronnie:
You are going to have a blast. That is a great model and a great floor plan! Did I mention a GREAT YEAR ;-)
Yes, the old vacuum in the inverter socket trick. We have seen it before. Denny's advice is right on. The little tricky 7A (look for RESET) protector on the front just needs a reset. If that does not work check the breaker in the AC panel right close by.
On subjects that have been covered you can save yourself time on replies by going to the group
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/KodiakChassisClassC/ (http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/KodiakChassisClassC/)
And search on the subject - I think there were some great posts on Silver Stars and how to align (1/2 of the problem). Can't help you more than that as I have not done this myself.
P.S. We are having a get together in Kerrville TX as a part of the Sweet Heart Rally around Valentines day.
Kevin (In Austin TX)
Kevin (Real) McCoy [KF5FUZ / WQJE447]
("Roscoe Ventura" Jayco Seneca HD SS 34 Diesel 2006; "Toad" Jeep Wrangler Unlimited 2007)
Yahoo Message Number: 7771 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/7771)
Headlights -
I had 2 problems
1) Aim
Adjusted to proper alignment.
2) Dim lights.
The problem was low voltage at the bulbs. With the engine running, the B+ was 14.15v, but at the headlight connectors - 12.35v low beam, 11.82v high beam. I'm in the process of installing relays to get full voltage, and I have also bought new housings to accept H4/9003 bulbs. I chose these because they are DOT approved.
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4251 (http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4251)
Charles
Yahoo Message Number: 7773 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/7773)
Lynn,
I might not understand your statement or the circuit. I don't have a schematic of the circuit.
You have a voltage drop on the positive side.
Did you get a voltage drop at the old relay?
The system has another problem in the circuit if you do not have battery voltage at the headlight.
You might try connecting the negative lead on the meter to the negative terminal on the battery. Then use the positive lead to test the circuit as you follow the current path through the complete circuit from connection to connection. If you find a voltage drop, you will find a bad connection between the last full voltage reading and the voltage drop reading. A small drop (.1V ) in each connection is ok. You should have a full voltage drop at the consumer (headlight). If you still have voltage after the headlight, continue checking the ground side of the circuit.
High resistance causes heat and can cause things to melt.
Dan
Yahoo Message Number: 7774 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/7774)
Ok I have a few more questions. I have been doing some searching through past posts here and have figured a bunch of info out on my own.
1. It looks like the brake light switch has a new part number 15128874. http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?singlepart=1&partnumber=15128874 (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?singlepart=1&partnumber=15128874)
My Dad has already replaced this once, does anybody have the part number for the fluid flow switch(I think that is what it is called)? This is the sensor on the bottum of the master cylinder. This sensor acted up on him on his last trip and I would like to add it to the spare parts bin.
2. Where is a good place to get the air and fuel filter besides the dealer?
My Dad is supposed to have it emptied out this weekend. Should take me about 10 minutes to move my stuff out of my Lance truck camper. Here is a picture of my current rig
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h132/ron993/New%20Camper/IMG00016-20100814-1959-1.jpg (http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h132/ron993/New%20Camper/IMG00016-20100814-1959-1.jpg)
Yahoo Message Number: 7775 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/7775)
Thanks for the suggestions.
Measurements made with negative lead on chassis ground, undisturbed for all readings. B+ reading taken at post in relay housing under hood, passenger side firewall. Positive probe inserted in headlight connector on positive side of filament for those measurements. One reading I didn't originally list is DRL: 11.51V.
Bad connection could be the problem, but could be in the form of poor contacts in one of the headlight switches. Voltage drop could also be due to insufficient wire size. My guess is that the problem is one (or both) of these. To do thorough testing of the circuit would require dash disassembly. Instead, I have chosen to deliver power to the headlights by installing relay circuits that will be operated using the existing headlight circuit, to get full voltage at the lights. I think it's the path of least resistance.
Good write-up on this at
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html)
(http://cid:A4C04DF6-08C0-46BB-8EA1-01D6957D7240)
Charles
Yahoo Message Number: 7776 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/7776)
If you are having problems with these switches. Do you have a electric brake controller? If you do, you need to check the wiring. It should not be wired to the brake switch.
Check out Bulletin 66 for proper wiring.
http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull66.pdf (http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull66.pdf)
Every MH that I have checked had the brake control wire wired to the brake switch. It needs to be wired to a light blue wire in a harness located on inside of passenger frame. Just in front of passenger side leveling jack.
Improper wiring in this area causes brake switch failures.
Best
Ron Hall
Yahoo Message Number: 7787 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/7787)
Attachments :
Charles,
That is a good write-up.
The test you ran on the circuit (Battery to headlights) obviously showed a problem in the connectors or relay. I don't think GM wires wood loose 2V on a vehicle of that age.
Please keep us informed on the outcome.
Dan