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Water Leak

Yahoo Message Number: 11848
Having water problems in the overhead bed. After 3 trips to the local dealer and 6 weeks of having a pressure check not successful.

Appears water is coming in on passenger side maybe at window but can't locate the leak. It continues until it leaks at the corner of the overhead cutout above the drivers head. Removed the plastic trim but can't locate the water.

Must still be in overhead because it leaks into the windshield from apparently the trim over the windshield.

Any ideas???

Re: Water Leak

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 11852

I had sort of same type problem. I had put a windshield sun reflector in top window across front to help with the heat instead of the day night blind. What happened it melted the window gasket and was leaking below window. Turned corner and waterfall fell on dear wife !!

Re: Water Leak

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 11856
Water leaks are hard to fix in front cab. I have had leaks in heavy rain. Found that seal between cab and overhead had moved out of place. Put it back in place leaks stopped.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: Water Leak

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 11860
On 9/15/2013 12:09 PM,

Quote
Having water problems in the overhead bed. After 3 trips to the local
dealer and 6 weeks of having a pressure check not successful.

Geez, I feel your pain, but at least the pressure check test worked for
me. My coach sits slightly nose low in storage and the endcap acted like
a fiberglass resevoir, I had no idea it was full of water til I started
driving and it poured out above the passengers windshield and then over
the platform too. I sucked four gallons of water out with a vac and
narrow tube.

By "pressure check", I assume you're talking about the Sealtech process
where the put positive pressure on the inside and soap the outside.

That found my leak along the seam where the endcap meets the side of the
coach towards the top. The water ran in there and into the fiberglass
pool. I had all the seams cleaned and resealed, plus some other
preventative stuff, but it cost me $2000 by the time I was done.

Greg

Re: Water Leak

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 11872
Yes, the Sealtech process but am unsure if it was operated by monkeys.
How did you get the water out??

I beleive the water is coming in above or around the small window on the passenger side in the overhead because the moisture meter shows moisture in that area the inside wall covering shows evidence of water.

I also beleive it it collecting in the end cap and running or being absorbed by the carpet over the drivers head. I am unsure at this point how to remove the carpet to check for damage.

The strange thing is that it leaks onto the windshield when starting out from the seam above the windshield, thus, this seam must not be sealed. Everytime i stop at a light or stop sign and start out it leaks on the windshield.

Since my local guys are unable to even find the leak, don't know what to do.  Ideas? ? ? ? ??

Thanks,
Don


Re: Water Leak

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 11875
My BIL had a similar leak on his Bigfoot MH. First indication was it was the side window. Removed window and resealed. Did not fix problem. Ran water hose over all seams in the area near leak. Found that problem was at seam where front cap meets roof. Sealed with 4" Eternabond tape across seam. No more leak.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: Water Leak

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 11876
I just did both endcaps over the weekend with 6 inch eternabond. that stuff works great. going to do the rest of the roof the next dry day we have.

mark....


From: ronjhallsr
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 2:26 AM
Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] Re: Water Leak

Re: Water Leak

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 11878
Mark Yackley wrote:

Quote
I just did both endcaps over the weekend with 6 inch eternabond. that
stuff works great. going to do the rest of the roof the next dry day we
have.

Did you remove the old lap sealant or apply it over top? What kind of
roof material do you have?

My roof is TPO and I want to do some seams, like that front one, but I'm
not sure whether to try to remove the sealant that's on there. I'm
afraid I'll do more damage than good. They say it can go over the old,
but it seems it would be a nicer install if it was gone.

Greg

Re: Water Leak

Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 11879
Donald Gryder wrote:

Quote
Yes, the Sealtech process but am unsure if it was operated by monkeys.

Yeah, they seem to find jobs everywhere. I had mine done at a Camping
World that's 90 minutes from one much closer, but I've had good luck
with that location.....but, I went out with the service writer to check
how it was going finding the leak and the guy said, "found it, right
here...not where I thought it would be, but this is where it bubbled". I
asked about other areas on the coach and he said.."fine"....I looked and
it was totally dry all the way around so I asked if he checked the rear
tail lights, markers, etc. He looked at the service writer a bit oddly
and started stammering. I told him I was paying to have the coach leak
tested, not for him to guess where it might be leaking. The service
writer and I stayed while he did the rest of the coach. It was good
except for around one tail light. BTW, the leak in the front was exactly
where I had told him I thought it was leaking, but he decided that was
unlikely.

I'd like to be given credit for not being a complete idiot after 40
years of owning RV's.

Quote
How did you get the water out??

My wife had a 2' long crevice tool she bought for her vacuum somewhere
and it fit my shop vac. I took the plastic tip off the end and was able
to get the nozzle down between the upper bunk platform and the wall
panel once I removed the molding. I just sucked the water out, then put
a fan blowing in there for two days to dry it all out.

Quote
Since my local guys are unable to even find the leak, don't know what to
do. Ideas? ? ? ? ??

Sounds like they might not be doing the sealtech very well.

Greg

Re: Water Leak

Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 11881
i have a fiberglass roof.

I just cleaned the old roof sealant really well with laquer thinner and went over the top of it. it actually looks pretty good just going over the top of the old. you have to be careful that you get it all layed out and ready to go before you pull the film off for application because once it goes down, it doesn't come back up. on the six inch wide tape i had an issue where the film would split and i was only getting it down on half and had to go back and pull the film that had split off and was careful to get it back down flat. it only takes a couple of minutes to get the hang of it and once you do it goes down nice and flat, press it into and on the roof as best you can and then roll it. the nice thing is if you need to make a wider section of tape, you can apply it over itself with a little lapping and it seal up great. they should come from the factory with this type sealant on them rather than the tube stuff.


From: Greg Gimlick
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: [KodiakChassisClassC] Re: Water Leak

Re: Water Leak

Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 11884
I was unable to watch the pressure system being used by they stated that several small leaks were discovered and repaired and after each repair, repressured the coact to look for other leaks. I found one leak they missed so they must not be real proficient.

Where can the eternabond tape be found?

Sounds as it maybe the necessary to do the front nose cap.

Did you use the laquer to just clean the seam or prep the area?

Did you do the entire end cap or just the top?

I have water leaking out the bottom of the cap at the seam above the windshield.

Is the tape clear of different colors?

Have any idea how to get into the end cap to see if there is any damage?

Thanks,


Re: Water Leak

Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 11886
If you google eternabond you will get several hits on it. i just looked for the place that gave the best price. it isn't cheap, but if it seals things up it is priceless.

i bought the six inch wide for the end caps and that covered all of the old sealent plus some on each side so i believe it to have sealed well. i also bought a four inch roll, each of them were 50 foot rolls so i have plenty to product to seal things with.

i cleaned the old sealent very well and cleaned about three inches past on each side of the eternabond so as to make sure the edges had a good clean surface to adhere to.

i did the top of the cap and went over the side down to where the roofline ends, about three to four inches down.

the tape i used is white. there may be a grey color but i don't remember.

you tube has some videos on it and i watched a few of those also.

i believe eternabond tape is what they use to seal the tops of the slideouts, at least that is what it looks like on my rig.

make sure you get the metal roller with it. and roll the edges well to get the bonding down. it is kind of like applying a rubber patch to an inner tube.

they also have a prepping spray if you are going apply the product under a certain temp. i bought that just in case.

make sure the eternabond is at least at room temp as it will make it easier to roll out and apply. i am totally pleased with the product and the results.


From: Donald Gryder
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 17, 2013 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: [KodiakChassisClassC] Re: Water Leak

Water Leak

Reply #14 –
Yahoo Message Number: 13136
After having my unit at the local rv dealer for in exess of 3 times and several dollars spent, I am stil confused and going nuts.

I still am experiencing a water leak under the nose of a 6362.

I can't seem to find any leak into the nose overhead the driver but believe it is between the outside skin and inside floor.

The rv dealer used the system to pressurize the unit, something like Tech something, and then went over it with soapy water to locate leaks.

I stil have the same problem.

When it rains, it appears the water collects somewhere and then when comes out between the rubber molding and the screw strip over the windshield. Strangely enough, it only comes out when accelerating from a stop. No leak upon stopping only on accelerating.

At this point, i am out of options. I don't know where the rubber strip covering the screws should be removed or what to do.

Has anyone had such an issue or any suggestions?

In a second non related issue, can anyone advise where the right rear corner may be obtained?

I have a large crack that developed at the top and continued all the way to the bottom completely seperating.

A body man says he can repair it but I would rather have a new one instead of a patch job if available.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Re: Water Leak

Reply #15 –
Yahoo Message Number: 13145
Attachments :

    On my coach, the water was getting into the front cap area via the wire channel in the ceiling. The water was entering at the antenna and draining through the channel into the front cap. As my interior cabinetry has been re-done, I have access to the front cap area by removing my flat screen TV.

    Greg Thompson
    MN
    '05 Endura 6340

    From: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com]
    Sent: Monday, July 7, 2014 1:40 PM
    To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] Water Leak



    After having my unit at the local rv dealer for in exess of 3 times and several dollars spent, I am stil confused and going nuts.

    I still am experiencing a water leak under the nose of a 6362.

    I can't seem to find any leak into the nose overhead the driver but believe it is between the outside skin and inside floor.

    The rv dealer used the system to pressurize the unit, something like Tech something, and then went over it with soapy water to locate leaks.

    I stil have the same problem.

    When it rains, it appears the water collects somewhere and then when comes out between the rubber molding and the screw strip over the windshield. Strangely enough, it only comes out when accelerating from a stop. No leak upon stopping only on accelerating.

    At this point, i am out of options. I don't know where the rubber strip covering the screws should be removed or what to do.

    Has anyone had such an issue or any suggestions?

    In a second non related issue, can anyone advise where the right rear corner may be obtained?

    I have a large crack that developed at the top and continued all the way to the bottom completely seperating.

    A body man says he can repair it but I would rather have a new one instead of a patch job if available.

    Thanks for any suggestions.

     

    Re: Water Leak

    Reply #16 –
    Yahoo Message Number: 13147
    Check the top trim strip across the top. Remove the caulking from the screws and look for rust. Make sure the strip is secure, scrap the caulking off, clean it good and recaulk. A hair line Crack where water sets against that trim strip will be hard to find. Some times if you pull part of the plastic trim across the bottom at the low side, you can find water or rust in it. Water shouldn't be in there. Check all your roof calking. The water probably collected in the nose and moves back when you accelerate.

    Dan