Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: winterizing my 2012 seneca (Read 402 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

winterizing my 2012 seneca

Yahoo Message Number: 9903
hi all

wish for some pointers
winterized yesterday opened all low point drains faucets and took out drain plug on
water tank the night before.
disconnected ice maker tubes as per manual.
ran the pink stuff through all the lines, faucets, shower, outside shower and washing machine ( on hot and cold).
had some difficulties getting it to prime on bypass and winterized.
had to open low point draines and fiddle with bypass knobs.
any comments?
also in my sewer bay the bypass section has three valves in an inverted triangle-- upper left
says cold upper r says hot and middle lower says bypass-- for the life of me i cant find a schematic for what this means-- plumbing wise any thoughts?

thanks all

Re: winterizing my 2012 seneca

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 9904
Move to California where you don't have these issues and you can use your coach 12 months a year....LOL ;-)

Be well,

~
Victor - KI6IM
Kodiak Diesel Dutchmen 34H Bunkhouse

From: NIALL
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 7, 2012 7:24 AM
Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] winterizing my 2012 seneca


hi all

wish for some pointers
winterized yesterday opened all low point drains faucets and took out drain plug on
water tank the night before.
disconnected ice maker tubes as per manual.
ran the pink stuff through all the lines, faucets, shower, outside shower and washing machine ( on hot and cold).
had some difficulties getting it to prime on bypass and winterized.
had to open low point draines and fiddle with bypass knobs.
any comments?
also in my sewer bay the bypass section has three valves in an inverted triangle-- upper left
says cold upper r says hot and middle lower says bypass-- for the life of me i cant find a schematic for what this means-- plumbing wise any thoughts?

thanks all
 

Re: winterizing my 2012 seneca

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 9910
Attachments :

    I sent you my write up - version 5 - under a separate email to spare the group.

    Questions answered -

    Yes, make sure you protect the hot water heater (bypass), under-sink water filter (we have removed ours) and any other appliance.

    We found that the fresh water tank can be slow to drain - so night before is a good idea. If you use the sanitize procedure then this can get clogged a bit as well. So watch for that.

    Priming - yes - that is an issue. I found that a brief relief of the low point drains in the pump house - will cause the pump to prime more quickly. Once that is done - the pump moves very fast. Put a band of tape around the low point drain that speeds the prime, so it is easier to spot next time. Do not mess with the bypass once it is set - it protects the hot water heater from the "pink stuff" - tripping the hot water relief valve will speed the hot water heater draining process. Also make sure the uptake hose is away from the bottom of the bucket or antifreeze container.

    Recommend Air flush. Positive air pressure around 25 to 30 lbs - is a quick way to move the water through the lines more quickly - see my procedure for details. Plus it will reduce the amount of antifreeze you need to use, and reduce remnant water in the systems.

    In my bypass you have
    Cold water enters the heater (A)
    Hot water departs the heater (B)
    Bypass connection (C)

    In order to bypass the hot water heater you shut the cold access off, the hot reentry off, and the bypass (C) on. Basically short circuiting the hot water heater. Reverse these when you switch back during the sanitation process - see my document.

    Bypass picture

    Kevin

    Kevin (Real) McCoy [KF5FUZ]
    ("Roscoe Ventura" Jayco Seneca HD SS 34 Diesel 2006; "Toad" Jeep Wrangler Unlimited 2007)