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Re: Generator Blues [1 Attachment]

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15512
professionally, how we make an electrical joint like you describe, (for marine use) is to put lugs on all wires to be joined together. these lugs will normally be crimp on, but set screw will do in a pinch, and have the same size terminal hole in them.

then you make the following stack up for assembly: bolt head, lock washer, flat washer, all of your lugs back to back so that they are all facing in the same way and take up minimal space.... like this qp, then another flat washer and another lock washer, then the nut. Don't use a nyloc as they will melt if your joint heats.

Then tape the whole thing up with Fiberglass tape (keeps the stickem off the thread and protects the insulation from the metal) on top of the layer of fiberglass tape done 50% overlap, we use glue boot (heat shrink with heat activated glue inside) or a 50% overlap of byseal (self vulcanizing rubber tape) and a 50% overlap of vinyl tape. This is water proof to 50 feet if done right.

Morrigan (Marine electrician instructor by trade for the Navy)

Re: Generator Blues

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15513
I have no way of reading the file you posted. Can you post it in another format?
Best
Ron Hall

Re: Generator Blues

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15514
I think it is a Word Perfect file but my Microsoft Word opened it fine. Here it is…
Generator Blues
Over the last month or so, I have found my self in a series of generator issues and will pass along what I discovered in the event it may of assistance to you.  The gen is a 5,500 watt diesel unit    Loss of one leg of power.Our rear a/c lost power.  The generator breakers were checked and found to be in the “ON” position, thus went to the automatic transfer switch (Lyght Power System by ESCO), which is located in the rear bedroom near the shore power cord inlet under the flexible furnace ducts.  Inside the switch are 3 groups of wires, 1 from the shore power cord, 1 from the generator and 1 that goes to the main breaker box.  Each group has 1 red and 1 black power lead, 1 white neutral and 1 ground.  The ground is a solid bare wire where the other wires are #6 stranded wire.    When the generator lead were checked, power should be on the red and black but unfortunately  was only being received on the black lead only.  Next stop was the terminal box mounted by GS to connect the transfer switch with the generator leads.  This box has the 1 red and black lead, 1 neutral and 1 ground that goes to the transfer switch.  Coming into the junction box from the generator is 1 red and 1 black power lead, 2 white neutrals and 1 green ground.  All of these wires are #6 stranded wire.  The connections between the generator lead and the automatic transfer switch lead were made with a huge blue wire nut  and a couple were loose.  In addition, the generator lead is not sufficiently long enough to remove the generator without disconnecting the wiring.  I removed the generator lead from the junction box, added about 4 feet of wire to each wire, shrink wrapped and enclosed the new wire in a flexible conduit and connected the leads in the junction box with a mechanical fastener and shrink wrapped each.  In my case, the junction box was rather small making connecting both sets of leads difficult in the confined space.  The blue wire nuts were not a satisfactory method of making the connection, thus, a mechanical fastener was selected but it became difficult to locate a small mechanical fastener that would suffice.  The final solution was to take lugs and cut off the end leaving the part with the set screw.  The wires were slid into the opening and secured with the set screw before shrink wrapping.  When the generator was removed and the electrical inspection cover place on the left end removed, it was discovered a broken wire leading to 1 of the breakers.  The power the generator makes is transmitted by 2 white wires about 10 gauge to the 2 breakers using a breaker for each leg.  That power passes thru the breakers to 2 black wires that go directly to the terminal block to which the generator lead is attached.  1 of the black wires is attached to the black terminal (Leg #1) while the other black wire is attached to a red wire terminal(Leg #2). The additional 2 white neutral wires and 1 green wire attached to the terminal block are connected to the generator body at a common ground.  In addition, it appears that if any wires become loose inside this electric side of the generator, they could be hit by the fan which is operating below them, such as the starting switch wiring or the hour meter wires.  In fact, I had a couple of wires that were loose and could not find where they attached.  After calling Onan/Cummins and getting multiple suggestions, I found a web site called Flight Systems that offer complimentary tech service from 1pm-3pm at 717-790-2043 their Eastern Penn location, as they make and sell Onan voltage regulators and control boards.  I spoke with Tom then Tim and they are great.  They sent me a wiring diagram and walked me thru it to find where the loose wires connected.  The wiring diagram is located on the last pages of the Onan service manual.  When attempting to trace wiring, the wires in the generator are identified with a number on each wire and can then be located in the DC wiring diagram.  In my particular situation, the Generator Connection Diagram provided a diagram and schematic but I was required to use the 120 option which is different from the 230 and 120/240.   I made the repairs, applied loom to all the wires and used zip ties to tie them up in order that they could not get into the fan.    Was unable to remove the entire left end of the electrical compartment without removing the front and removing the coolant tank because the end of the metal cover plate caught on the tank lip.  I trimmed the metal sufficiently around the lip in order that the entire end can by pass this lip in the future.Success this far.  Oil leak from dip stick tubeDue to the amount of oil on the bottom of the gen pan, I realized there was a problem to discover the famous dip stick tube had ruptured.I placed a call to Onan to be advised my gen was one that had the defective tube.  It seems a metal tube was fabricated to insert into the dip stick hole in the side of the engine with a rubber hose attached to the other end running up near the start switch.  The only problem is that this rubber hose is not oil resistant.  Onan was willing to sell another tube/hose $170.00 but it was also made of the same defective rubber.  I took the old tube out, cut the brass connection that connected the metal tube and rubber hose.  Went to a hydraulic store and purchased a hose that fit over the large end of the metal tube about 7/8 " inside.  As this hose was rather hard to bend, I just ran it straight to the front of the gen and it exiting under the right end of coolant tank. The end of the hose was secured by a zip tie under the coolant tank bracket when completed.  On the large end of the defective rubber hose was the end that was secured to the gen and held the yellow dip stick end.  I cut the rubber hose off this along with the bracket with the 2 bolts.  The new hose was just large enough that a piece of 7/8" metal conduit just fit inside the hose.  With some sanding and polishing, the  metal conduit would just fit the original end with the yellow dip stick cap.  The yellow dip stick cap was inserted into the original fitting and the metal conduit was seated against the yellow dip stick cap.  The conduit was cut approximately 1 ½" longer in order to slide inside the rubber hose and secured with a couple of metal screws. Before securing the rubber hose to the coolant bracket, the rubber hose was cut to length where it protruded a couple of inches outside the front panel without hitting the compartment door.  The rubber hose was secured on both ends with a large screw hose clamp.  The final step involved cutting the dip stick. I just cut the stick and lapped it over the required length and brazed it.  No oil leak yet and sure is easier to check the oil level.  Total cost less than $20.00Finally, I cut the front panel into thirds with the middle panel being able to be removed if necessary to gain access without removing the entire front.  Dead fuel pumpThe engine began to stop and when started would run a couple of minutes and die again.  Observing the 1 ½" of clear fuel line, I discovered there was no fuel being returned meaning it was starving for fuel. I had an additional fuel pump and placed that in tandem with the factory pump and it worked.  Seemed as if starving for fuel.  Maybe a fuel filter?  It is amazing that Onan puts the fuel pump before the fuel filter.  In order to remove the fuel pump, which it is under the radiator caused the sides to be removed.  I removed the fuel pump and fuel filter and decided it was much too much work to do this job again.  I pulled the fuel lines from under the motor until I got to where they were connected to the engine.  I cut a slot in the top of the rear panel exiting the fuel lines outside the generator along with the fuel pump power lead.  I mounted a standard diesel fuel pump $39.00 compared to $100.00 Onan pump and placed a cartridge fuel filer before the fuel pump. If a fuel filter or fuel pump is required to be changed, now it can be done in minutes instead of hours.  I also added about 4 feet of fuel line in order that the gen could be run and tested when removed from the camper.  The original supply and return fuel lines are larger that the lines on the generator engine and the resolution to this problem was the fuel lines fitting originally in the right end of the unit.  Since the elimination of these fittings, I was required to purchase a couple of brass couplings with the appropriate size barb fittings.  However, none of the products I had worked with sealing these barb fittings and the couplings.  Teflon is a no no.  I went to a local gas distributor and asked what they used to seal the diesel fuel hoses on their pumps.  They gave me a small can of a grey thick liquid that did the trick.  It is unknown what it is as the label has part missing and the remainder is covered with the can contents.  Oil pressure, Coolant Temp It appears the only method to determine if the oil pressure is low or the coolant temp is high is when the unit shuts off.  While inside the unit, I removed the oil sending unit and the temp sending unit.  In my particular case, I was able to use a short small brass nipple screwed into a brass “T” then screw the original oil sending unit in one side of the T and the new electric oil sending unit into the other side of the T.  Depending on the size of the sending units, it is a good idea to dry fit all the part prior to actually putting on thread sealant.  The temperature sending units are larger thread size and will require a larger “T”.  It is necessary to determine the block hole size, then obtain a short brass nipple and maybe a reducer/bushing to connect the nipple and the T.  Dry fit first because of the limited space may require additional configuration.    When completed, I ran the wiring for the 2 new gauges to the same location as the inside remote start control and installed S/W gauges.  Now, immediately upon start up, one can see the oil pressure and coolant temp.  According to Onan, these units have a 160 degree thermostat.Reduce noiseWhen the unit was reassembled and started, it was noticed that the air being blown thru the radiator seemed to be going into 2 different directions.  Of course, it was going thru the radiator and out the right side exhaust but also was then bouncing off the gen compartment walls.  In addition, the air was blowing toward the exhaust out the bottom and some of this hot air was being recycled into the unit for cooling air.  I placed an insulated partition between the muffler and radiator which directed all air going thru the radiator out the side exhaust. This seemed to take away some of the muffler noise that was combined with the radiator exhaust air.  In order that this exhaust air is moved outside the gen compartment, I made a box like duct covering the right side exhaust outlet that directs all the air down the duct toward the ground.  In addition, I made a cover plate that covers the bottom of the muffler compartment with the exception of the exhaust pipe.  This hole is enlarged and allows some heat to escape.  I cut the exhaust pipe and ran a pipe all the way to the front bumper where it now exhausts.  Not only is this quieter but eliminates diesel fumes coming in open windows.Also, I had several sheets of insulated duct board which was cut and placed on the compartment walls.  In addition, pieces were secured to the front, back, top and right end of the generator.  Observation of the coolant temp has never shown greater than 185 degrees.  Cable connectionsWhile connecting the battery and ground cables, suddenly, in my wrench was the end to one of the brass connection nuts.  I removed the connections bracket, fabricated a bracket with grommets and connected longer cables, shrink wrapped, and ran them direct without the brass connections.   With the addition of the additional cable, fuel lines, battery cable, ground cable and associated wires, it is possible to remove the generator from the camper, move it outside with sufficient room to move around it and perform any task while still being able to operate it same as when it is positioned in the camper.  The only exception is the exhaust pipe must be disconnected.  When the gen is placed back in the compartment, the additional cable, fuel lines, and etc must be secured with zip ties until the next time it must again come out.    Sure would be nice if a tray was available that allowed the gen to lower then slide out but as yet I have not found one.  Missing in action control board fuseI know this will sound amazing if not unbelievable, however, the inline fuse that provides power to the entire control board is located under the starter.  Who would have thought??  I have spoken with several individuals at Onan service facilities and they all agree on 1 thing.  The state, these little devils are a bear to work on and freely admit that if they know one is coming in for repair, they attempt to be working in the field or somewhere else that day.  I asked about maybe them performing part of this work and they stated they could not make any changes to the original configuration.  If changes had been made, they would be required to change them back to original configuration.  However, the factory configurations are the real problem.  I was surprised to find stories on line of individuals paying $1,200 to have the dip stick tube replaced then a few months later the new tube ruptured.    From: SuperCrvgroup@yahoogroups.com [mailto:SuperCrvgroup@yahoogroups.com] Sent: Monday, September 26, 2016 4:49 AMTo: SuperCrvgroup@yahoogroups.comSubject: [SuperCrvgroup] Re: Generator Blues    I have no way of reading the file you posted. Can you post it in another format?BestRon Hall

Re: Generator Blues

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15515
Speaking of Generators, has anyone installed a hour meter on their QD5500? Mine has the knock out, and I purchased one that fits. Just wondering if the wiring is there and just not used. Its model # 5.5HDKBA-2732 Rev. C

Kendrick

Re: Generator Blues

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15516
The wire harness that switch is hooked to should have wires for a hour meter.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: Generator Blues

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15517
Many of the items you have on your list are items that I will do to my generator if it ever needs pulled again.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: Generator Blues

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15518
To: Ron Hall

Hi Ron,

I'm going to pick up a 2006 GS Endura 6340 Diesel next week from a private seller out of state. I live in Belleville, Mi and saw that you also live in SE Mich. Is there any chance that I could look at your RV, at least from the outside? I would also love to know about any major issues to check for on the 6340.

I currently have an E450 Class C, but am moving to the Endura to be able to tow a bigger trailer.

Thanks,

Dave Miah



Re: Generator Blues

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15519
I'm sure this has been answered already, but how easy is it to basically get the generator out of it's home? I have the same gen. I see the bolts, but I'm also sure it is heavy. I suppose you use sometime of trolly to raise under it and then lower and out?

Re: Generator Blues

Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15520
A forklift or a HD transmission jack works to remove it without to much difficulty..
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

Re: Generator Blues

Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15522
Dave I am in Wixom. Send me your phone # by email. I will call you back,
Best
Ron Hall

Re: Generator Blues

Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15523
I removed my with pallet forks on my tractor. Not a bad job. If I did not have a tractor I would have used 4X6s stacked high enough to let generator set on it. Then use MH's jacks to set generator 4X6's. A couple of people should be able to slide the whole thing out away from MH to work on it.
Here are some pictures of my removal.
QD5500 by RonaldJ Hall

Best
Ron Hall

Re: Generator Blues

Reply #13 –
Yahoo Message Number: 15529
Hi Ron,

Thanks again for taking the time to educate me about the 6340 Endura! I have another favor to ask - can you measure the width of the frame where the hitch mounts, including inside to inside and outside to outside of frame rails? I'm trying to find a 12,000 lb hitch that can be used with weight distribution bars and need to know the frame widths.

Thanks again,

Dave