Yahoo Message Number: 13899 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/13899)
I want to take advantage of the cool AZ weather and buff out the motorhome. The finish is not too oxidized, so a multi-step process would likely be overkill. I got a Porter Cable 7424 polisher, some pads, and some Pinnacle XMT 360 one-step, and a pile of microfiber towels. Got a couple of ladders and 10' 2x12s for scaffolding. Couple of questions spring to mind:
1. Do you recommend removing the awning(s) or just get around them as best you can?
2. Do you use the buffer and one-step on the decals (vinyl)?
3. Should I blast the decals with 303 before or after the rest is done?
4. What product is good for the black trim around windows, mirrors, and the rubber hatch hinges?
5. Do you recommend buffing the roof or just wash good with long brush?
6. What's a good product for the aluminum wheels? I will use 303 on the tires.
7. Any other words of wisdom,
Ok. More than a couple.
Happy New Year, and Happy Trails!
JimB
Yahoo Message Number: 13900 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/13900)
Anyone else having problems replying to threads.
Best
Ron Hall
Yahoo Message Number: 13901 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/13901)
Thought I replied yesterday. But it is not here,
1. I do not remove the awning. But do open them to get behind arms.
2. I have used 303 and Meguiar's #50 for light oxidation without any decal problems.
3. Before.
4. I use Back to Black on black items. Best to keep wax off these items.
5. I use a brush and Murphy's oil soap. Then put a coat or 2 of Protect All on.
6. Mother Ball and Wheel Polish. The put a coat of wax on them.
7. Repeat the waxing and cleaning at least 2 times a year.
Best
Ron Hall
Yahoo Message Number: 13902 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/13902)
You've got too much energy, come by NC and work some of it off on my coach :-)
Take care,
Greg
Yahoo Message Number: 13903 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/13903)
Thanks, Ron. I assume you just do the best you can around the slides and slide awnings. My roof is fiberglass, so I figure the Murphy's is for rubber?
@Greg, yes I'm getting bored spitless. Trying to figure out stuff to do that doesn't break the bank. Breaking the back is apparently allowed, though.
Yahoo Message Number: 13904 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/13904)
Nope mine is fiberglass. I use soap that will not mark the sides when water drips down. I have tried Simple Green. But it leaves streaks on side walls. Also use a good car wash soap like Turtle Wax.
Best
Ron Hall
Yahoo Message Number: 13905 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/13905)
My wife says to me, "strong back, weak mind....keep working" :-)
I need to hand wax mine this spring before we head out, but I'm not looking forward to it. My roof is TPO so Murhpys and 303 do the job up there. I need to get some Back to Black. My overcab has some oxidation again and I'll use the 3M polishing compound on that before coats of wax. I'm careful around the decals, but wax over them. I bought a roll of Dicor putty tape and need to re-do the ladder attachments and the water intake fitting.
No end to small jobs that add up to big ones if you end up doing them all at once. I prefer bits and pieces, but can't keep it at the house so it ends up being marathon sessions when it's here for 48 hrs :-/
Take care,
Greg
Yahoo Message Number: 13906 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/13906)
Another point. Wax applies best above 60°. To cold around south AZ for waxing in the next few days.
Best
Ron Hall