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Lighting problem

Yahoo Message Number: 7923
Some of our lights in the Seneca are not working. They are the last light in the center of the living area, near the galley, the next one which is in the shower area, and then the second one in the bedroom. We bought all new florescent tubes and put them in, still no lights. DH checked the breakers, everything is OK. Is there a hidden switch somewhere?

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7924
Did you accidentally turn the switch off on the light itself?

From: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dee
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 7:40 PM
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] Lighting problem



Some of our lights in the Seneca are not working. They are the last light in the center of the living area, near the galley, the next one which is in the shower area, and then the second one in the bedroom. We bought all new florescent tubes and put them in, still no lights. DH checked the breakers, everything is OK. Is there a hidden switch somewhere?

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7925
The switch on the lights do not work.

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7926
You may want to pull the lights down and check the wires to be sure the wire nuts they use didn't come loose. All three in the living area should be on one wall switch as you come in the door. The one in the shower/vanity area should have a switch above the vanity with the pump and medicine cabinet light switch. The two in the bedroom should be on one switch under the bedroom TV. Those are the only switches for the ceiling lights that I have in my 35GS .

From: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dee
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 9:02 PM
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Subejct: [KodiakChassisClassC] Re: Lighting problem



The switch on the lights do not work.

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7927
We'll do that. We went over some pretty horrendous roads in the last few days, especially in southern Alabama. Broke the Brake Buddy!

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7929
Not sure Jayco is the same as our GS. There is a set of switches as you enter coach entrance door. One of the switches controls some of the overhead lights. Maybe you have this switch and it was turned off.

Best
Ron Hall

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7930
We tried all the switches at the door. Still no lights. It is very weird. Six lights down the center of the coach, counting from the front, 1 and 2 are fine, 3 and 4 are out 5 is OK, 6 is out.

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7931
Strange for sure. Whenever we had that problem we usually found it was because the individual switches on the lights were in the off position. If that isn't the problem and you've rotated the bulbs and those in that work won't work in the locations you've indicated, makes one wonder.

I don't think that the GFI breaker in the bath area would have an impact on the lights but...... you might check it.

Don

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7932
Take the lense cover off and check to see what brand the lights are. In mine they are from direct sourcing alliance out of Michigan. I have a couple lights out in my Seneca and have ruled out wall switch's, switch's on the lights and bulbs. All that leaves is a ballast. I have searched the internet for a ballast kit for these light but have had any luck. All that I have found is that direct sourcing imported these cheap Chinese lights and sold them to a bunch of rv mfg's. I found a forum for a 5th wheel brand that I can't remember the name of that was full of people talking about these light failures. I figured I could get a ballast from a thin-lite, but the ballast in these is epoxied to the housing. So now I am researching new light fixtures, since if I replace the 2 that don't work they will not match the rest.

From: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dee
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 9:02 AM
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] Re: Lighting problem



We tried all the switches at the door. Still no lights. It is very weird. Six lights down the center of the coach, counting from the front, 1 and 2 are fine, 3 and 4 are out 5 is OK, 6 is out.

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7935
Take the lense off
Take the bulbs out
There should be a metal cover that was in between the bulbs. You squeeze it a little and it should pop off. Behind that cover you will see the ballast. It looks like a circuit board.

There is no real way to test a ballast other than make sure it is getting power from the battery, the switch is good and the bulbs are good. If all those check out, then the ballast is most likely bad.

If your lights are made by thin-lite you can get a new ballast at camping world

As for what is a ballast is changes the power from 12 volts to the correct power and wave form that the fluorescents need. That is best description I can think of.

From: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dee
Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 10:19 AM
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] Re: Lighting problem



What is a ballast?

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7936
Well, it was a shot in the "dark" and it didn't provide any light. Good luck. Reading about the ballast had my head spinning.

Don

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #13 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7938
I've had two ballasts go bad on my Seneca. I swapped out the tubes to make sure they were okay. Used a volt meter to be sure the fixture had 12v off the switch. That left the ballasts. I route I took was to switch to LED tubes, which eliminates the ballast. Love the brighter lighting.

George

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #14 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7939
We are having the same problem! One in bedroom, one in bath hall
will not work. Couple of others changed out the bulbs and they work
fine. Like someone said I think it is the ballast. Just looked here on the
internet and ballast is 25.00 and whole light is 38.00. Will check out
our local dealers and stores before ordering. The bath hall light has Direct
Sourcing Alliance as the maker with E252153 as the #. Input rating of
12v DC, 16W. Mine use 2 8 w bulbs.....which I found at Walmart.

From: Don Leslie
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 5, 2011 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: [KodiakChassisClassC] Re: Lighting problem


Well, it was a shot in the "dark" and it didn't provide any light. Good luck. Reading about the ballast had my head spinning.

Don


Re: Lighting problem

Reply #15 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7940
George, did you change out the fixture to or remove the ballast to be able to use the LED tubes?


From: George Hooper
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 5, 2011 4:38 PM
Subject: Re: [KodiakChassisClassC] Re: Lighting problem


I've had two ballasts go bad on my Seneca. I swapped out the tubes to make sure they were okay. Used a volt meter to be sure the fixture had 12v off the switch. That left the ballasts. I route I took was to switch to LED tubes, which eliminates the ballast. Love the brighter lighting.

George


Re: Lighting problem

Reply #16 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7941
I kept the original fixtures so that they would match the rest of the coach. I converted just the three in the living area. Since one of those fixtures still had a good ballast, I saved that part in case I need it in a rear fixture. Here's the website and replacement tubes I bought http://www. RVLedBulbs.com/product-p/18-0117.htm
George



Re: Lighting problem

Reply #17 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7942
One tube per fixture or does it still require two? Only purchase necessary is the tubes? Just direct wire? Sorry so many questions but less thinking on my part if I get answers before hand. Think this is the way to go. Thanks for the response.


From: George Hooper
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 5, 2011 5:33 PM
Subject: Re: [KodiakChassisClassC] Lighting problem


I kept the original fixtures so that they would match the rest of the coach. I converted just the three in the living area. Since one of those fixtures still had a good ballast, I saved that part in case I need it in a rear fixture. Here's the website and replacement tubes I bought http://www. RVLedBulbs.com/product-p/18-0117.htm
George



Re: Lighting problem

Reply #18 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7943


I used two LED tubes per fixture to have the proper brightness. Size, color and brightness (measured in Lumens) need to be considered. My fluorescenttubes were F8T5, where F8 = Fluorescent, 8 watts (translates to a 12 inch tube) T5 = Tube, 5is the number of eights (5/8) in diameter. Your bulbs may also have a color rating or Kelvin Scale rating. These are may be shown as, WW= warm white (below 3500 Kelvin-yellowish in color); NW= white or natural white (3200-4000 Kelvin-white in color); or CW= cool white (above 4000 Kelvin-bluish color). My Seneca had warm white tubes. I changed over to natural white.
Paying attention to the Lumens of replacement LED tubes is important if you want brightness comparable to the old tubes. The typical 12 inch (8 watt) fluorescent puts out 380 Lumens. I chose six 400 Lumen replacements giving me an additional 120 Lumens of light in the coach's living area--A needed improvement (IMO).
The LED replacements came with instructions. I removed the old ballasts, although it's not necessary (you can just cut the wires). You connect one wire from the LED tube to the switch and the other to ground.
George



Re: Lighting problem

Reply #19 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7944
Appreciate your help!!! Will be doing this while doing the winter rest! Your response should be
helpful to the others that were having the problem.

From: George Hooper
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, November 5, 2011 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: [KodiakChassisClassC] Lighting problem



I used two LED tubes per fixture to have the proper brightness. Size, color and brightness (measured in Lumens) need to be considered. My fluorescenttubes were F8T5, where F8 = Fluorescent, 8 watts (translates to a 12 inch tube) T5 = Tube, 5is the number of eights (5/8) in diameter. Your bulbs may also have a color rating or Kelvin Scale rating. These are may be shown as, WW= warm white (below 3500 Kelvin-yellowish in color); NW= white or natural white (3200-4000 Kelvin-white in color); or CW= cool white (above 4000 Kelvin-bluish color). My Seneca had warm white tubes. I changed over to natural white.
Paying attention to the Lumens of replacement LED tubes is important if you want brightness comparable to the old tubes. The typical 12 inch (8 watt) fluorescent puts out 380 Lumens. I chose six 400 Lumen replacements giving me an additional 120 Lumens of light in the coach's living area--A needed improvement (IMO).
The LED replacements came with instructions. I removed the old ballasts, although it's not necessary (you can just cut the wires). You connect one wire from the LED tube to the switch and the other to ground.
George



 

Re: Lighting problem

Reply #20 –
Yahoo Message Number: 7945
Thanks to everyone who replied. We are hitting CW today in Hammond. We are on a big trip across country. Hoping to get this sorted out soon.