Yahoo Message Number: 4597 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/4597)
We got all set up to try and get the broken drill bit out of the zerk today but we really had no hope. It as broken off almost flat so there was nothing to really grab onto with needle nose pliers.
Looks like it will have to be a new u-joint. I'm not too sure where to have it done but first inquiry will be with a neaby GM MDT that is primarily a heavy duty truck dealer (Mack).
If their quote is out of sight then I'll check with McCormick in Nappanee and have it done the day before the Rally in July. Might also check with Mor/Ryde since I think they changed this u-joint last year and it was their zerk that broke off. I wonder what it will cost?
After retracting the jacks we got under again and took some photos of the bump stops. Prior to deploying the jacks the level showing it was levelled front to rear.
Here are some photos of the bump stops and one of the rear stabilizer connecting rod. Two on the first page and then 3 more on page 2. The bump stops come right down to the top of the springs and appear to be resting on the springs.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KodiakChassisClassC/photos/album/1236069548/pic/list (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KodiakChassisClassC/photos/album/1236069548/pic/list)
I can't help but think our springs have flattened. But I don't now. I would have thought there should be a gap of a couple of inches from the top of the springs to the bump stop.
I did a bit of googling today and stumbled on this comment on Diesel Place in a thread on the Kodiak:
Yahoo Message Number: 4598 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/4598)
The best place in our area for your drive shaft repairs is http://www.haroldsframeshop.com/ (http://www.haroldsframeshop.com/) .
You yellow snubbers are the same ones on my Kodiak. The should be close to the springs.
I looked at my stabilizer bar linkage. Looks to be in about same position as yours.
Back to the Zerk. Did you try a easy-out. May need a drill to drill out zerk end to fit easy-out.
Best
Ron Hall
Yahoo Message Number: 4599 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/4599)
Yes, had extractor and thought I was using it but I was doing the starter hole into the zerk when the drill bit broke. We tried drilling into the drill bit but that was hopeless.
I keep wondering why the devil they didn't put in sealed permanently lubed u-joints? Is their life expectancy that much shorter?
Don
Yahoo Message Number: 4600 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/4600)
Don . . . A trick that has worked for me is to use a Dremmel wit.h a thin cut-off wheel to grind a slot deep enough to use a flat blade screwdriver.
George
Yahoo Message Number: 4601 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/4601)
Life expectancy is much shorter with lifetime lube and heavy loads.
Best
Ron Hall
Yahoo Message Number: 4605 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/4605)
George, the problem is getting a thin cut-off wheel into the zerk.
QUESTION. If we can, what happens if we cut a bit into the u-joint? My son thinks that could give us an integrity problem with the u-joint.
Any views on this.
Don
Yahoo Message Number: 4609 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/4609)
Yours is permanently sealed now do not mess with it.
From: Don Leslie
Sent: 30 May, 2010 4:55 AM
To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [KodiakChassisClassC] Re: Zerk - not a great day
Yes, had extractor and thought I was using it but I was doing the starter hole into the zerk when the drill bit broke. We tried drilling into the drill bit but that was hopeless.
I keep wondering why the devil they didn't put in sealed permanently lubed u-joints? Is their life expectancy that much shorter?
Don
On 2010-05-30, at 7:03 AM, ronjhallsr wrote:
Yahoo Message Number: 4610 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/4610)
The options if I leave as is are (1) to have the u-joint replaced or (2) lube with a needle - and that looks to be a real PITA.
Don