Yahoo Message Number: 16886 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16886)
I am a long time member of the group originally as a Super C, myself a Jayco Seneca 36 MS owner. My Atwood water heater recently quit working on 110 Volt but works perfectly on propane. Suggestions? Could it be the heating element? How do you check to see if that's the problem? Location of element? Not out side in the exterior door. My heater is a Atwood 10 gallon GC10A-4E Mfg Date 10/21/08 Ser# 9401801183947 Any one have any experience with this heater in the Jayco Seneca 36MS located under the kitchen sink.
Thanks
Larry
Yahoo Message Number: 16887 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16887)
I would start with the obvious
Check the breaker
Check that there is voltage to the water heater. You will need to get access to the back of the water heater through a cabinet most likely.
Ronnie
Yahoo Message Number: 16888 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16888)
Larry,
I just had the same symptom for my Atwood and was set to replace the element, but since I had the RV in for something else I had them check it and replace the element as needed. Turns out it wasn't the element, it was the electrical connection for 120vac to the element. The wire nut had wiggled loose and the wires were arcing and blackened a couple of inches up the wire. He cut off the damaged area and soldered the connection, so that corrected the issue. So while it likely is the element, it may be something else.
Safe travels,
Jim B.
Yahoo Message Number: 16889 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16889)
As Ronnie said all elec stuff is inside on back.of WH.
Yahoo Message Number: 16890 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16890)
I helped a member replace the electric element in a 35 GS. It was in the bedroom. Had direct access to it. Just needed large enough socket to fit it.
Do you have access to the heating element. If not you may have to remove water heater to repair.
Best
Ron Hall
Yahoo Message Number: 16891 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16891)
Hello Group,
Thank you all for your suggestions on my non working Atwood (electric only) water heater. I found as one suggestion said it was the 110 volt connections at the heater that were all 3 burnt and melted. These were the twist on type Jayco used during production. I replaces them with a set screw type connector that will not loosen. The heater is again working great. In the process I found one of the bypass valves on the heater used during the off season when bypassing the heater and adding antifreeze to the water system has a small drip leak. Any one know where to purchase one of these bypass valves? It a 1/2" push on hose type connection using a Raupex Pexa 1006 CTS type hose so it is marked. Kind of a milky semi clear hose. The other two valves are dry and work good. Suggestion for a replacement source for my leaking valve?
Thanks again for all your help!!
Larry
Yahoo Message Number: 16892 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16892)
I got rid of the plastic junk Jayco put in and got these from Home Depot along with extra pex, fasteners, and fastening tool.
1/2 in. Brass PEX Barb Ball Valve
https://www.homedepot.com/p/301541058 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/301541058)
Jay Hitaffer
Yahoo Message Number: 16893 (http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/supercrvgroup/conversations/messages/16893)
Watts also makes a "Sharkbite" type valve that slips on.
https://www.watts.com/products/plumbing-flow-control-solutions/connections/quick-connect/quick-connect-stop-valves