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Flat screen mount

Yahoo Message Number: 12028
I'm going to pull the lousy tv out of the overcab cabinet on my Greyhawk 32ss gasser and replace it with something bigger. The current TV is mounted in a cabinet that swings out on a piano hinge. I thought I'd mount a larger TV on an arm attached to the cabinet side that supports the current hinge. The question is finding an arm that is articulated and will lock so the TV doesn't swing when on the road.

Any suggestions for a good mount to support a 32" TV?

Take care,
Greg

Re: Flat screen mount

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12029
Check out Mor-Ryde's web site they make numerous RV TV mounts. Not necessarily cheap, but quality.



Dave

Re: Flat screen mount

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12031
Greg, keep in mind that it was Mor-Ryde that extended the wheelbase and the frame rails of your (and my former) 32SS.

Don

ps. Have you have tried to work behind that set to connect a cable PVR?

Re: Flat screen mount

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12033
Is that a good thing or a bad thing? :-)

ps.  Have you have tried to work behind that set to connect a cable PVR?  

PVR? I haven't done a thing other than some measurements. I intend to unscrew the whole piano hinge and remove the TV/cabinet together. I can always replace the cables from the DVD/antenna to the TV.

Take care,
Greg

Re: Flat screen mount

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12034
Sits directly below the TV on the cushion - not shown. Was going to make a container of some sort for it (DVD), but found it unnecessary.


Re: Flat screen mount

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12036
Early riser Ron wrote:

Quote
I have mounted several TV's in RV's using a Omni Mount sold at Sam's
Club. Just use a strap to hold TV in place.

Thanks for the link, when I go over to measure things today, I'll see if
that will work in the spot.

Waiting for the furnace repair guy to show up....it seems my wife
prefers the heat to work in the house right now :-)

Greg

Re: Flat screen mount

Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12037

Mine has a motorized arm that when I was going to install a larger TV I was simy going to shim out the mount so the TV would all be on the outside of the cabinet.
I am still trying to figure out a clean install for the master TV where I tossed out the CRT and put a Hannspree 26 inch in the cabinet. I really don't want to lose a storage space behind the TV

This will be new....

Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12060
I'm a die hard converted southerner. I grew up in upstate NY near the
Canadian border and spent my misbegotten youth tramping all thru
Adirondacks. When the Army drafted me and took me south, I forgot all
about that snow business until they dropped me in Alaska a couple times
back in the 70's. When I retired, I knew I would stay right here in
relatively warm and mild NC.

So.....as some of you know, each year we take the motorhome out to
Denver and see the grandkids, etc. We do this in May and June...IOW,
warm weather.

Soooooo, the wife and daughter-in-law put their heads together this week
and decided it would be just peachy if we loaded the motorhome and came
out for Christmas and stayed on into January for the birth of the next
grandchild.

I didn't stand a chance.

So, I'm prepping for the winter trip now. I have the temp activated
electrical adapter to trigger a work light to come on in the dumb valve
area, but never used it. I guess I'll find out if it works.

I'm going to order one of those heated drinking water hoses. Anybody
have a suggestion as to any particular one that's better than the others?

I haven't camped in winter in many years so any suggestions you
guys/gals can make to improve our luck with this is welcome.

Pray for a very mild December/January and good roads thru the mountains
of W Va, etc.

Greg

Re: This will be new....

Reply #11 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12062
I have the PIRIT hose and it served us well. I also have used a 100 watt bulb in the utility compartment but changed over to these from Wal-Mart. http://mobile.walmart.com/m/phoenix;jsessionid=0F9F4144A4B5BF35EA10D2E2C90216EF#ip/Lasko-Products-My-Heat-Personal-Heater/16503222

connected to this thermostat Amazon.com: Easy Heat EH-38 Freeze Thermostatically Controlled Valve and...

they served us well two years ago when the temps in DEN dropped to 17. As I'm sure you know there cold spells usually don't last long and the daytime temps go up most of the time. We never used the furnace, a couple space heaters served us very well.

Just remember to not leave the sewer hose out, just use it when you need to dump.



Dave

Re: This will be new....

Reply #12 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12063
Ah, it is a dump valve not a "dumb valve." On second thought, not much difference. :)

Greg, just in case you don't know, you go SOUTH in the winter. :)

Don


Re: This will be new....

Reply #14 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12065
Depart on Saturday. Have to go a little farther first day than we usually go - Cartersville GA.

Where be you now - Disney?

Don


Re: This will be new....

Reply #15 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12066
Yep. Till the 12th and then we're back Jan 6th. We'll work on getting together after the 1st of the year.



Dave

Re: This will be new....

Reply #16 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12067
Don Leslie wrote:

Quote
Ah, it is a dump valve not a "dumb valve." On second thought, not much
difference. :)

Must have been a Freudian slip :-)

Quote
Greg, just in case you don't know, you go SOUTH in the winter. :)

Darn....now you tell me! Yeah, I'd much rather be going back to Key West
for Christmas, but it seems SWMBO really really wants to be in Denver
this year, especially since we'll stay for the newest grandchild to be
born a couple weeks later. It better not be late!!!

Greg

Re: This will be new....

Reply #17 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12068
Dave wrote:

Quote
I have the PIRIT hose and it served us well.

That's good to know, there was some question in my mind after reading
mixed reviews. I went ahead and ordered one anyway just because I
thought it would be an easier solution than doing the heat tape and
insulation routine.

Quote
bulb in the utility compartment but changed over to these from
Wal-Mart.

That's a good looking idea, I'll check into that. I've got the 100w bulb
setup and haven't used it.

Quote
connected to this thermostat

That's the thermostat I bought last year after seeing it mentioned on
the list.

Quote
they served us well two years ago when the temps in DEN dropped to
17.

That won't be allowed this year!

Quote
As I'm sure you know there cold spells usually don't last long
and the daytime temps go up most of the time.

That's one of the things we've noticed about their weather. We talk to
the kids and hear about the cold and snow, then the next day it's gone.
Not totally unlike NC sometimes. I'm surprised at the swings they get
there. I'm just hoping the winds are less in winter than they are there
in May.

Quote
furnace, a couple space heaters served us very well.

We're prepared for both scenarios if need be. Kathy also has a heated
mattress pad she keeps on the bed for cold weather use.

Quote
Just remember to not leave the sewer hose out, just use it when you
need to dump.

The way Kathy goes thru water, that's every day on the gray tank :-\
Hadn't really given the sewer hose any thought.......

Greg

Re: This will be new....

Reply #18 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12069
Oh, that reminds me of winterizing. What a PITA. Taking it to Florida made a lot more sense.

I had asked earlier about putting the antifreeze in the fresh water tank. Well, when I gave my son a hand with his (blew out first and then filled the lines) we got out his manual (rare for me) and low and behold Forest River said dump antifreeze into the tank and pump it into the lines.

Good luck in Denver.

Don

Re: This will be new....

Reply #19 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12070
Don Leslie wrote:

Quote
Oh, that reminds me of winterizing. What a PITA. Taking it to
Florida made a lot more sense.

Can't argue with that. I hope I can make it until mid December without
having to winterize before we leave.

Quote
we got out his manual (rare for me) and low
and behold Forest River said dump antifreeze into the tank and pump
it into the lines.

How about that :-) I always did it that way when I kept a trailer set up
down at the beach. I think I was one of the few who winterized between
trips in the winter. It only took a minute to pull it thru the lines and
go home without worrying about it. A few seconds of flushing when we
came back cleared it out. Rinse....repeat. I never had a broken line
with either trailer, but I did get to see some guys replacing lines in
the spring who laughed at me in the winter for doing it.

Quote
Good luck in Denver.

Thanks, it should be "interesting". I ordered new tires today so that's
the big expense. I'm also having a lot of work done as far as all fluids
being changed, etc. I was putting it all off while I waited to see if we
would be trading first, but it looks like we'll keep the Kodiak for the
foreseeable future. Especially after dropping a few thousand on it.

Greg

Re: This will be new....

Reply #20 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12071
Wouldn't it be nice to have 4WD and snow tires on for the trip.

Pity the 4WD or AWD would hammer the MPG pretty hard. And of course raise the price a bundle.

Don

Re: This will be new....

Reply #21 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12072
Greg. Will send you a write up under a separate cover to the spare the group the repeat.

Short list -

1) Just disconnect as you would at home.
2) EZ Heat with an appliance bulb
3) Roof Vent Pillows
4) Turn air conditioner on Recirc before you shut off the engine (closes the vents)
5) Seal the cab with a comforter to lock in the heat.
6) Lasko is your friend.

More hints http://www.ehow.com/how_2097799_cold-weather-camp-rv.html

Kevin

Re: This will be new....

Reply #22 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12073
Kevin (Real) McCoy wrote:

Quote
Will send you a write up under a separate cover to the spare the
group the repeat.

Got it, thanks.

Quote
1) Just disconnect as you would at home.

I'm going to try the Pirit heated hose and see how it goes.

Quote
2) EZ Heat with an appliance bulb

Got that.

Quote
3) Roof Vent Pillows

Got them too.

Quote
4) Turn air conditioner on Recirc before you shut off the engine (closes
the vents)

Yup, that's on our standard list of things to do even here in the south.
In the summer it keeps the A/C from pulling hot air thru.

Quote
5) Seal the cab with a comforter to lock in the heat.

We do that in cold weather, it's amazing how much difference it can
make. We also do it in very hot weather. Drop the bed down over the cab
and hang a blanket to seal it off keeps hot and cold from coming back to
the coach.

Quote
6) Lasko is your friend.

We have two of them now too :-)

I guess the sewer hose is the only thing left to deal with.

Greg

Re: Flat screen mount

Reply #23 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12076
Hey Kevin, could you send me the write up on the TV arm as well..
I have a 06 gulfstream conquest with the TV cabinet up by the overhead bed.
I've already gotten the TV out, but I want to add a arm and a bigger TV as well.
Thanks
Bruce

Re: This will be new....

Reply #24 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12080
Sorry to butt in, but we just bought a Seneca and are planning on using it some this winter to attend snowmobile races. I'm paying close attention to all the recommendations for cold weather camping.

My specific question is, does any cold air get in through the rooftop AC units? Is there a way to close them off? We have the covers for the units, if we put them on when we get to our destination, would this help?

It is likely that the temps will be anywhere from -10*F to +20*F during the nights.

Thanks in advance for your help. I'm new to your group, but am enjoying all the emails.

Shawn


--
Shawn Colby

Altitude GunWorks
Shop:  (970)337-6241
Cell:  (970)471-8020

http://AltitudeGunWorks.com
shawn@...

Re: This will be new....

Reply #25 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12083
Haven't had an issue with that, and I elk hunt in the mountains of WA and MT... get a foamy to stick in the vents, and definitely turn off the cab heater, by going to 0 with the fan off, before shutting down the engine, then hang some sort of cover between the cab and the living space, it makes a HUGE difference.

If you don't have a auto on genset, you'll want to run the genny for several hours before bed, or the heater will drain it before morning, and when the batteries get low enough the damn CO detector goes off... YOU WILL wake up, and you'll need to start the rig, then pop the cross connect switch before you can start your genset. (yes this is the voice of experience.)
Morrigan

Re: This will be new....

Reply #26 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12084
Nothing will come out of the AC units. It's a sealed unit with air moving over the cooling fins from inside MH. But they can have a cooling affect on MH.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: This will be new....

Reply #27 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12085
I did the light bulb on both sides of my rig as the freshwater tank is by itself on the right hand side and that is where the water comes from for the pump in the water bay. I also put the personal heater from walmart in the water bay but it wasn't enough to thaw the toilet line when it froze this year. had to go to a stronger heater. I insulated the pipe from the tank to the pump and that helped this year when the temp got down to 14 in MT. the previous year it was 9 degrees when I left after my hunting trip. but the line to the toilet froze this year so I am going to insulate that this year. also I have to figure a way to insulate the freshwater tank better as it froze a layer of ice in it and then vapor locked they system so that I could only get a about a half gallon of water before I had to shut the pump off and let it regroup. the one thing I know so far is that it takes a lot to keep those bays warm enough to keep from freezing up.


On Friday, November 1, 2013 1:44 AM, "ronjhall@..."  wrote:

Re: This will be new....

Reply #28 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12086
Get some of the aluminum bubble insulation (Reflectix) and make a piece large enough to cover the entire utility compartment before you close the door that also helps hold the heat in.

Dave

Re: This will be new....

Reply #29 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12087
I've wondered about the low point drain lines. They are just hung out there there the propane tank compartment and under the frame. They always have water in them so I suspect they'd freeze easily.

Take care,
Greg


Re: This will be new....

Reply #30 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12088
Aren't your valves in the compartments?



Dave

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Re: This will be new....

Reply #31 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12089
The low point valves are in the compartment where the dump valve is. That just open to the ground and so are the drain lines once they exit the other side of the coach by the propane tank. I might try to at least get some foam pipe insulation over them, but doubt I can get it all because of how they cross the frame in the middle. Poor design.

Take care,
Greg


Quote
On Nov 1, 2013, at 1:44 PM, Dave mnsprk@...> wrote:


Aren't your valves in the compartments?



Dave

-----

Re: This will be new....

Reply #32 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12091
i bought a piece of rigid foam insulation and went in and did all i could in the water bay. it took a little work, but i was able to get insulation behind all of the lines in the water bay. i also worked some in under the black and grey water tanks. i am pretty sure that this will make a huge difference in the ability of the bay to hold a little more heat and to keep the cold away from the lines. i also ordered a tank heater from one of the sites listed in this email string. i am going to install that on the freshwater tank as when i pulled the panel that hides the freshwater tank on my rig, i noticed that the tank is not secured down but just setting there. i plan on jacking up one side, sliding in a couple one inch sticks all the way across and then sliding in a piece of rigid foam insulation and then sandwich the tank heater in between the tank and insulation and that should solve my freshwater tank freezing problems. i have learned a lot the last couple of hunting seasons about these rigs and the cold. i didn't have this problem with my jayco escapade as all of that stuff was inside the coach and the waste tanks had heaters installed from the factory. i think jayco cut corners with these rigs as i think they should have had tank heaters installed at the factory also.



From: Greg Gimlick
To: "KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com"
Sent: Friday, November 1, 2013 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: [KodiakChassisClassC] This will be new....

Re: This will be new....

Reply #33 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12092
Quote
i bought a piece of rigid foam insulation and went in and did all i could in the water bay.  it took a little work, but i was able to get insulation behind all of the lines in the water bay.

I spent two days working on mine, but there's more to do. I crawled all under it to find bits of low point drain lines, etc that were exposed and insulated them. I got lucky with where they crossed the frame from the propane compartment over to the dump valve side. I was able to get the foam pieces started and slide them down the line while pulling the paper off and sticking them together.   I've still got to wrap the brass right angle joiners with insulation. The line to the fresh tank are insulated now, but the tank is still exposed behind the fake wall in the compartment.

Quote
i also worked some in under the black and grey water tanks.  i am pretty sure that this will make a huge difference in the ability of the bay to hold a little more heat and to keep the cold away from the lines.

My tanks have heat pads under them, but the black tank gate valve is exposed in the propane compartment.

Quote
i also ordered a tank heater from one of the sites listed in this email string.  i am going to install that on the freshwater tank as when i pulled the panel that hides the freshwater tank on my rig, i noticed that the tank is not secured down but just setting there.

Sounds like mine. What unit do you have? I have a 2007 Jayco Greyhawk 32SS gasser.

The other jobs were pulling the tv cabinet out and replacing it with the new mount and 29" flat screen. Hard to believe that 30 pound cabinet was supported by six #6 screws thru a piano hinge, but it showed no signs of loosening over the six years I've owned it. The new tv and mount are about 15 pounds.

I also installed the new refrigerator door. The oak panel on the main door adds 13.5 lbs to the 7 lb door. Since the rest of the appliances are black, I ordered a set of black acrylic panels that will weigh about 2 pounds.

Now the coach is over at the truck place getting 6 new tires, alignment, wheel bearing check, lube, oil change, xmsn fluid change, rear end fluid change, fuel filter change, serpentine belt, brake check and adjust, radiator flush. Hopefully that should take care of that end of it.

The Pirit heated hose arrived today and looks decent enough. Damn expensive though.

When I get it back, I'll continue trying to find and protect components. I've got two thermostat outlets with lights to put in two critical compartments. If it gets to 15 degrees, I don't know if it will help though.

Christmas in Key West was so much easier :-)

Take care,
Greg


Re: This will be new....

Reply #34 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12093
i have a 2006 jayco seneca on the chevy kodiak 5500 frame. duramax diesel.

i did the front tv last year after i had a run in with the wrong electricity. i learned a lot that day. i went to a 32 inch lcd mounted on what was supposed to be a telescoping mount so i could move and position for better viewing but that didn't work out so it is mounted solid in the same hole. went from about a 60 pound tv to i think 18 pounds.

i have been slowly replacing fluids as i get time. have the tranny left to do, but it has that transyn fluid in it now and that is supposed to be good for a bunch of miles but i think due to age i'm going to swap it out anyway. peace of mind you know.

i can't remember the type of tank heater i got. i bought the one that only plugs into 120 volts as i figured if i am boondocking i don't want to run the battery down keeping the water warm. i was able to still function with the temp down to 14 degrees. i could get fresh water but only a half gallon at a time due to the sheet of ice on top in the freshwater. i plan on insulating the freshwater bay better too, but just heating the tank will help considerably.

there is always something on these rigs...

mark

Re: This will be new....

Reply #35 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12094
Mark Yackley wrote:

Quote
i did the front tv last year after i had a run in with the wrong
electricity. i learned a lot that day.

Ouch, that doesn't sound good. When I had this house built 8 years ago,
I had them pour a concrete pad on the side of the house and the
electrician installed a 30 amp RV outlet (I had a travel trailer at the
time), but the electrician didn't know anything about RV's and had only
ever seen such a 30 amp outlet wired as 240v so that's what he did. I
didn't know it until I backed the trailer in and plugged it in -
BOOM...instant smoke from the converter. Fortunately that was the only
thing damaged and the dealer covered it under warranty in spite of the
error. The electrician offered to pay if it was needed. Now I wish I had
a 50amp service there, but since it can only be here for 48 hrs at a
time, it really doesn't matter.

Quote
on what was supposed to be a telescoping mount so i could move and
position for better viewing but that didn't work out so it is mounted
solid in the same hole.

I took the cabinet out and mounted the 29" TV on an articulated mount
good for 80 pounds. I went for overkill on the mount because I put it on
the side of the old frame where the original one was mounted. That meant
it is extended sideways all the way during travel. I wanted to be sure
it handled the load. My only concern is the four screws into the back of
the TV itself. There doesn't seem to be any framework inside, it's very
flimsy feeling and the whole back of the TV flexes. Time will tell.

Quote
i have been slowly replacing fluids as i get time. have the tranny left
to do, but it has that transyn fluid in it now and that is supposed to
be good for a bunch of miles but i think due to age i'm going to swap it

Mine is a 2007 and the truck place said it wasn't necessary since I only
had 42,000 miles on it, but I mentioned Allison's recommendation of
100,000 miles or 48 months. Since I'm well past 48 months, I had them
change it. It looks and smells fine. I could have sent it off for
analysis, but decided to just change it. With the tires and everything
else, another $100 at this point is moot. :-\

Quote
i can't remember the type of tank heater i got. i bought the one that
only plugs into 120 volts as i figured if i am boondocking i don't want
to run the battery down keeping the water warm.

Maybe I'll check to see what's available. I doubt we'll do this more
than once, but I don't want trouble.

Quote
there is always something on these rigs...

I've told my wife for years that if anyone had any sense they'd never
buy the darn things :-)

Greg

Re: This will be new....

Reply #36 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12095
this is where i got my tank heater. bought the one for the 60 gallon tank as my freshwater is 55 gallons.

http://www.ultraheat.com/select_tank_heater.html

i did the tires last summer. i had michelins on the rig when i bought it, and even tho they only had 18,000 miles on them, they had been down in the fresno california sun their whole life and were quite weather checked. i offered them to a friend of mine for equipment trailer tires, but les schwaub said they were too far gone.

i went with double coin tires and so far am happy with them. i have about 8000 miles on them and they are wearing well and roll pretty good. i put a mud and snow type tread on the drivers and a rib type on the steer wheels. i do get a little road noise from the back tires, but i like the feeling of better traction if i need it.

one thing i did after i had a small roof leak in the back corner of mine is go over all of the seams and places on the roof where there was goop and put on that endurabond tape sealant. that stuff is the best product i think for sealing short of doing the rhino lining roof treatment that i have seen on youtube. i hope to never have to mess with gooping anything up on the roof again.

yeah, there is always something that needs to be tinkered with on these rigs or some idea that someone else has done that is nice to add. i added the extendastay propane attachment last year after montana as it was cold and i was running low on propane and didn't want to have to pull up stakes to go fill the tank. it is nice to just go fill a portable and use that. much easier.

mark