Skip to main content ↑ ↓
Topic: Flat screen mount (Read 2038 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Re: This will be new....

Reply #25 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12083
Haven't had an issue with that, and I elk hunt in the mountains of WA and MT... get a foamy to stick in the vents, and definitely turn off the cab heater, by going to 0 with the fan off, before shutting down the engine, then hang some sort of cover between the cab and the living space, it makes a HUGE difference.

If you don't have a auto on genset, you'll want to run the genny for several hours before bed, or the heater will drain it before morning, and when the batteries get low enough the damn CO detector goes off... YOU WILL wake up, and you'll need to start the rig, then pop the cross connect switch before you can start your genset. (yes this is the voice of experience.)
Morrigan

Re: This will be new....

Reply #26 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12084
Nothing will come out of the AC units. It's a sealed unit with air moving over the cooling fins from inside MH. But they can have a cooling affect on MH.
Best
Ron Hall

Re: This will be new....

Reply #27 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12085
I did the light bulb on both sides of my rig as the freshwater tank is by itself on the right hand side and that is where the water comes from for the pump in the water bay. I also put the personal heater from walmart in the water bay but it wasn't enough to thaw the toilet line when it froze this year. had to go to a stronger heater. I insulated the pipe from the tank to the pump and that helped this year when the temp got down to 14 in MT. the previous year it was 9 degrees when I left after my hunting trip. but the line to the toilet froze this year so I am going to insulate that this year. also I have to figure a way to insulate the freshwater tank better as it froze a layer of ice in it and then vapor locked they system so that I could only get a about a half gallon of water before I had to shut the pump off and let it regroup. the one thing I know so far is that it takes a lot to keep those bays warm enough to keep from freezing up.


On Friday, November 1, 2013 1:44 AM, "ronjhall@..."  wrote:

Re: This will be new....

Reply #28 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12086
Get some of the aluminum bubble insulation (Reflectix) and make a piece large enough to cover the entire utility compartment before you close the door that also helps hold the heat in.

Dave

Re: This will be new....

Reply #29 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12087
I've wondered about the low point drain lines. They are just hung out there there the propane tank compartment and under the frame. They always have water in them so I suspect they'd freeze easily.

Take care,
Greg


Re: This will be new....

Reply #30 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12088
Aren't your valves in the compartments?



Dave

-----

Re: This will be new....

Reply #31 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12089
The low point valves are in the compartment where the dump valve is. That just open to the ground and so are the drain lines once they exit the other side of the coach by the propane tank. I might try to at least get some foam pipe insulation over them, but doubt I can get it all because of how they cross the frame in the middle. Poor design.

Take care,
Greg


Quote
On Nov 1, 2013, at 1:44 PM, Dave mnsprk@...> wrote:


Aren't your valves in the compartments?



Dave

-----

Re: This will be new....

Reply #32 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12091
i bought a piece of rigid foam insulation and went in and did all i could in the water bay. it took a little work, but i was able to get insulation behind all of the lines in the water bay. i also worked some in under the black and grey water tanks. i am pretty sure that this will make a huge difference in the ability of the bay to hold a little more heat and to keep the cold away from the lines. i also ordered a tank heater from one of the sites listed in this email string. i am going to install that on the freshwater tank as when i pulled the panel that hides the freshwater tank on my rig, i noticed that the tank is not secured down but just setting there. i plan on jacking up one side, sliding in a couple one inch sticks all the way across and then sliding in a piece of rigid foam insulation and then sandwich the tank heater in between the tank and insulation and that should solve my freshwater tank freezing problems. i have learned a lot the last couple of hunting seasons about these rigs and the cold. i didn't have this problem with my jayco escapade as all of that stuff was inside the coach and the waste tanks had heaters installed from the factory. i think jayco cut corners with these rigs as i think they should have had tank heaters installed at the factory also.



From: Greg Gimlick
To: "KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com"
Sent: Friday, November 1, 2013 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: [KodiakChassisClassC] This will be new....

Re: This will be new....

Reply #33 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12092
Quote
i bought a piece of rigid foam insulation and went in and did all i could in the water bay.  it took a little work, but i was able to get insulation behind all of the lines in the water bay.

I spent two days working on mine, but there's more to do. I crawled all under it to find bits of low point drain lines, etc that were exposed and insulated them. I got lucky with where they crossed the frame from the propane compartment over to the dump valve side. I was able to get the foam pieces started and slide them down the line while pulling the paper off and sticking them together.   I've still got to wrap the brass right angle joiners with insulation. The line to the fresh tank are insulated now, but the tank is still exposed behind the fake wall in the compartment.

Quote
i also worked some in under the black and grey water tanks.  i am pretty sure that this will make a huge difference in the ability of the bay to hold a little more heat and to keep the cold away from the lines.

My tanks have heat pads under them, but the black tank gate valve is exposed in the propane compartment.

Quote
i also ordered a tank heater from one of the sites listed in this email string.  i am going to install that on the freshwater tank as when i pulled the panel that hides the freshwater tank on my rig, i noticed that the tank is not secured down but just setting there.

Sounds like mine. What unit do you have? I have a 2007 Jayco Greyhawk 32SS gasser.

The other jobs were pulling the tv cabinet out and replacing it with the new mount and 29" flat screen. Hard to believe that 30 pound cabinet was supported by six #6 screws thru a piano hinge, but it showed no signs of loosening over the six years I've owned it. The new tv and mount are about 15 pounds.

I also installed the new refrigerator door. The oak panel on the main door adds 13.5 lbs to the 7 lb door. Since the rest of the appliances are black, I ordered a set of black acrylic panels that will weigh about 2 pounds.

Now the coach is over at the truck place getting 6 new tires, alignment, wheel bearing check, lube, oil change, xmsn fluid change, rear end fluid change, fuel filter change, serpentine belt, brake check and adjust, radiator flush. Hopefully that should take care of that end of it.

The Pirit heated hose arrived today and looks decent enough. Damn expensive though.

When I get it back, I'll continue trying to find and protect components. I've got two thermostat outlets with lights to put in two critical compartments. If it gets to 15 degrees, I don't know if it will help though.

Christmas in Key West was so much easier :-)

Take care,
Greg


Re: This will be new....

Reply #34 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12093
i have a 2006 jayco seneca on the chevy kodiak 5500 frame. duramax diesel.

i did the front tv last year after i had a run in with the wrong electricity. i learned a lot that day. i went to a 32 inch lcd mounted on what was supposed to be a telescoping mount so i could move and position for better viewing but that didn't work out so it is mounted solid in the same hole. went from about a 60 pound tv to i think 18 pounds.

i have been slowly replacing fluids as i get time. have the tranny left to do, but it has that transyn fluid in it now and that is supposed to be good for a bunch of miles but i think due to age i'm going to swap it out anyway. peace of mind you know.

i can't remember the type of tank heater i got. i bought the one that only plugs into 120 volts as i figured if i am boondocking i don't want to run the battery down keeping the water warm. i was able to still function with the temp down to 14 degrees. i could get fresh water but only a half gallon at a time due to the sheet of ice on top in the freshwater. i plan on insulating the freshwater bay better too, but just heating the tank will help considerably.

there is always something on these rigs...

mark

Re: This will be new....

Reply #35 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12094
Mark Yackley wrote:

Quote
i did the front tv last year after i had a run in with the wrong
electricity. i learned a lot that day.

Ouch, that doesn't sound good. When I had this house built 8 years ago,
I had them pour a concrete pad on the side of the house and the
electrician installed a 30 amp RV outlet (I had a travel trailer at the
time), but the electrician didn't know anything about RV's and had only
ever seen such a 30 amp outlet wired as 240v so that's what he did. I
didn't know it until I backed the trailer in and plugged it in -
BOOM...instant smoke from the converter. Fortunately that was the only
thing damaged and the dealer covered it under warranty in spite of the
error. The electrician offered to pay if it was needed. Now I wish I had
a 50amp service there, but since it can only be here for 48 hrs at a
time, it really doesn't matter.

Quote
on what was supposed to be a telescoping mount so i could move and
position for better viewing but that didn't work out so it is mounted
solid in the same hole.

I took the cabinet out and mounted the 29" TV on an articulated mount
good for 80 pounds. I went for overkill on the mount because I put it on
the side of the old frame where the original one was mounted. That meant
it is extended sideways all the way during travel. I wanted to be sure
it handled the load. My only concern is the four screws into the back of
the TV itself. There doesn't seem to be any framework inside, it's very
flimsy feeling and the whole back of the TV flexes. Time will tell.

Quote
i have been slowly replacing fluids as i get time. have the tranny left
to do, but it has that transyn fluid in it now and that is supposed to
be good for a bunch of miles but i think due to age i'm going to swap it

Mine is a 2007 and the truck place said it wasn't necessary since I only
had 42,000 miles on it, but I mentioned Allison's recommendation of
100,000 miles or 48 months. Since I'm well past 48 months, I had them
change it. It looks and smells fine. I could have sent it off for
analysis, but decided to just change it. With the tires and everything
else, another $100 at this point is moot. :-\

Quote
i can't remember the type of tank heater i got. i bought the one that
only plugs into 120 volts as i figured if i am boondocking i don't want
to run the battery down keeping the water warm.

Maybe I'll check to see what's available. I doubt we'll do this more
than once, but I don't want trouble.

Quote
there is always something on these rigs...

I've told my wife for years that if anyone had any sense they'd never
buy the darn things :-)

Greg

Re: This will be new....

Reply #36 –
Yahoo Message Number: 12095
this is where i got my tank heater. bought the one for the 60 gallon tank as my freshwater is 55 gallons.

http://www.ultraheat.com/select_tank_heater.html

i did the tires last summer. i had michelins on the rig when i bought it, and even tho they only had 18,000 miles on them, they had been down in the fresno california sun their whole life and were quite weather checked. i offered them to a friend of mine for equipment trailer tires, but les schwaub said they were too far gone.

i went with double coin tires and so far am happy with them. i have about 8000 miles on them and they are wearing well and roll pretty good. i put a mud and snow type tread on the drivers and a rib type on the steer wheels. i do get a little road noise from the back tires, but i like the feeling of better traction if i need it.

one thing i did after i had a small roof leak in the back corner of mine is go over all of the seams and places on the roof where there was goop and put on that endurabond tape sealant. that stuff is the best product i think for sealing short of doing the rhino lining roof treatment that i have seen on youtube. i hope to never have to mess with gooping anything up on the roof again.

yeah, there is always something that needs to be tinkered with on these rigs or some idea that someone else has done that is nice to add. i added the extendastay propane attachment last year after montana as it was cold and i was running low on propane and didn't want to have to pull up stakes to go fill the tank. it is nice to just go fill a portable and use that. much easier.

mark