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Sanitizing the fresh water tank

Yahoo Message Number: 2490
I am trying to get the bleach solution pumped into the water tank. I have set the utility manifold valves as per the illustration, but I can't get the solution to get pumped in. I would guess I have had the pump run for more than an hour (not continuously) with no results. I've checked the low point drain valves to verify they are closed (which they are). I did this procedure once before and I know it took a long time then also, but I am wondering if I have an air leak somewhere and am concerned about burning up the pump. For you that sanitize, does it take a loong time for the pump to do its thing?

Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

Reply #1 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2491

Just pour it in the hose prior to hooking to water source and then it will fill with some water when you fill it up a little bit. Drive around a little and drain it out.

Keith

Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

Reply #2 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2492
I sanitized about two weeks ago and it only too about 5 or 10 minutes for the water pump to pull the bleach water in. The key was ensuring the valves were aligned the wet compartment.
Now draining the tank afterwards - get a book and good chair :)

Glenn

Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

Reply #3 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2493
Once it stops snowing here and I can de-winterize I was going to sanitize my whole system because its used and I don't know how it was kept before. How much solution are you pumping in? I was just going to mix a chlorine solution in a 6 gallon water jug (just use the jug so I'm not dumping straight bleach in) and dump it in the fresh holding tank then top it off with fresh water from the hose, run it through the system and let it sit for a bit.

Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

Reply #4 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2494
A 1/4 cup of bleach will treat 15 gallons. Then I did exactly what you're talking about -- which is pretty much what the manual said.

The manual said to mix 1/4 cup bleach with 1 gallon of water. Each gallon of bleach/water solution will treat 15 gallons of water.....

1) Pump/suck the solution into the holding tank and top off
2) Run the water at each faucet, shower, toilet inside until you get the faint bleach smell, turn it off and then let it sit.
3) Let it sit for four hours
4) Drain
5) Refill system and flush the pipes and drain it again

You can mix it at 1/2 cup of bleach to a gallon and cut the sitting time to an hour or two as I recall -- don't have the manual sitting in front of me.

Glenn

Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

Reply #5 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2495
I gather some RVers put a bit of bleach in every time they add a substantial amount of water to the tank. I've been consider that option. Apparently that way it never gets away on you.

After our experience this past Monday when we ran out of water, I have to say I don't trust the gauges at all. Our son had an RV shower, then DW - and the indicator still said a 1/3 of a tank. I used a bit toi get wet, then soaped up, then tried to rinse and the tank was empty. A-N-N-O-Y-E-D. Was I ever. I had to be careful of the rain in Middlebury on Tuesday or I would have foamed up.

Don

Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

Reply #6 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2498
So Glenn, you can get the pump to suck up the solution into the tank? Does it take a long time for the pump to actually start drawing in the solution?

Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

Reply #7 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2499
Yes - the pump draws the solution in. I could see the water level in the bucket dropping after about a minute and the entire bucket - about two gallons was gone in less than five minutes.

I'm not sure what you're running, but I've got a Jayco Seneca 35GS. The wet compartment has five or six valves/switches. I'v got a cut
down hose (female end with about two feet of hose) that connected to the intake valve. The valves were aligned for sanitize or sanitize/winterize as I recall.

Glenn

Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

Reply #8 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2502
Thanks. I have to take my 34SS in tomorrow to the dealer. I'm getting down to the last days of warranty so I will have them look at this. I hope I didn't shorten the life of the pump by letting it run dry ...

Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

Reply #9 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2504
The below sanitizing procedure works very well for us - the wife and I both drink the water from our holding tank... but do take a few extra steps.

1) I remove the under sink filter and install the short bypass hose to prevent loading the carbon up with chlorine.

2) I either bypass the hot water heater during the process, or drain the hot water tank after neutralizing the tank.

3) After draining the chlorine solution from the FW tank, I refill the tank with water, adding one cup of baking soda to neutralize the chlorine. I run this solution through all the faucets and allow to sit for and hour before draining and refilling the tank.

4) Finally I reinstall the under sink filter, drain the hot water heater, and dump a couple cycles of ice from the ice maker.

Also, any time I fill from a non-chlorinated source (well water), I add about a tea spoon of chlorine for each 20 gallons of water added to the FW tank.

We have been using this method for the four years that we have had our Jayco... and had been very pleased with the quality of the water available. I initially skipped the neutralizing process but the chlorine was too strong for me to drink from the tank.

Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

Reply #10 –
Yahoo Message Number: 2616
Attachments :

      I have a 2006 Jayco Seneca 34 SS.
      I know, I know - its Texas , so why did I winterize? Well, I just like being able to sleep if we get a cold snap. So after carefully draining, bypassing the hot water heater, and removing the water filter (using the bypass hose)... it took about 3 gallons of Non-Toxic RV antifreeze to make sure every line and p trap was filled. After having done it though - I would love to hear from folks that have done air pressure, how they did it, and which they prefer (air pressure VS anti-freeze).
      The manual recommends Sanitizing after storage, and particularly mentions it after anti-freeze, so I thought I would document how it worked with the Seneca. Your system probably is different.
      At this point I knew that the water heater was drained, tanks were empty, hot water heater off... so if you use this procedure in another situation please look at those things. First I opened all the low point drains to let go the antifreeze. Second I removed the bypass of the hot water heater.
      I have a 55 gallon fresh water tank. I understand from readings elsewhere that you want about ΒΌ cup per 15 gallons. I mixed about 1 cup of Clorox in three gallons of water. Set the valves in the utility center for "Sanitize Tank" and hooked up the same intake hose I used for the antifreeze to the "City Tank Fill" connector.

              "Sanitize Tank"
      Then I set the bucket on my wife's collapsible step stool and sucked that solution straight in with the pump. It was a little slow to begin with (just as johninaz21 [johninaz21@...] reported), so I just temporarily opened one of the valves on the low point drains, and that seemed to do the trick for priming and the flow was fast (actually very fast) from then on.

            "Mmmm Chlorine"
      At this point I hooked the water hose up to the "City Fill" connection and filled the tank up the rest of the way.

            "City Tank Fill"
      The tank being full I ran each faucet & commode to make sure that the lines were clear of antifreeze, air, and all had the sanitizer fluid in them. It was getting late, and so I let the "at least three hours" turn into overnight.
      Next morning I turned on the pump and ran the water out through all of the spigots until there was only air. This partially filled the Grey and Black water tanks. My intent is to let them slosh a bit as we get underway.
      I refilled the fresh water tank to 1/3 also to slosh on our first journey. I like to run empty, but for the sake of cleanliness...
      We have arrived at a campground now on Lake Conroe north of Houston . My plan is to do one more dump, flush, and fill cycle and the process will be complete. Got to tell you though I am having no chlorine smell or issues with the water coming out of the tap, so maybe that is one flush too many? Also I have had no need to use the baking soda procedure some folks recommend. Maybe I am so used to Chlorine in our water systems nowadays.

    Suggestions for improvement welcome.
      Kevin (2006 Jayco Seneca 34 SS)
      30.435082N, 95.586504W
      14811 FM 1097 #32 West Willis TX 77318

    center
    From: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com [mailto: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of johninaz21
    Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 3:18 PM
    To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
    Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] Sanitizing the fresh water tank
    I am trying to get the bleach solution pumped into the water tank. I have set the utility manifold valves as per the illustration, but I can't get the solution to get pumped in. I would guess I have had the pump run for more than an hour (not continuously) with no results. I've checked the low point drain valves to verify they are closed (which they are). I did this procedure once before and I know it took a long time then also, but I am wondering if I have an air leak somewhere and am concerned about burning up the pump. For you that sanitize, does it take a loong time for the pump to do its thing?

    Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

    Reply #11 –
    Yahoo Message Number: 2617
    Here in NC I don't often winterize our Seneca... but I have. Having worked as an RV Tech, I have used both methods to winterize, both mine and customer, RV's.

    To winterize my Seneca, I usually just use air and blow out all the lines, drain the tanks and hot water heater.

    To blow out the lines, I 1) start by securing power to and draining the hot water heater and put the plug back in 2) attach my air hose to the city water fill using an adapter and self locking air chuck. I set the air pressure on my compressor at @45psi 3) open each faucet in the motor home, one at a time and starting at the faucet furtherest from the fill and working my way back toward the fill connection - always making sure I flush the toilet and drain the outside shower 4) I open all the faucets again to make sure I have got all the water out. 5) I disconnect the ice makers solenoid and lines and drain. 6) I blow out the low point drains 7) drain all the holding tanks 8) pour antifreeze in all the traps and toilet, to keep the seal moist. 9) disconnect the air hose and open all the faucets.

    When working as a Tech, I usually filled the customers water lines with antifreeze, unless they requested the system just blown out. When using antifreeze, I used the same method as above except 1) I would bypass the hot water heater after draining 2) remove and bypass any under sink filters 3) close off the ice maker line to prevent antifreeze from getting into ice maker.

    Having done hundreds of winterizations, I never had a complaint, using either method.

    Customers that did their own winterizations had a lot of problems, but usually limited to: 1) toilet flush valve cracked due to failing to flush toilet will blowing out lines or adding antifreeze 2) cracked faucet bodies from failing to leave faucets in open position 3) cracked ice maker solenoid valves... another item people always seem to forget.

    And before you ask, I like to blow all the water out of the lines before adding the antifreeze because it saves on antifreeze - when pumping antifreeze into waterlines with water still in them, I always seem to use about three gallons of antifreeze. When adding to lines that have been blown out, I use half that amount... may have a little to do with my poor color vision.

    Stinky Slinky Dance

    Reply #13 –
    Yahoo Message Number: 2619
    I was looking at Kevin's email/post about water tank sanitization
    and the picture of his wet compartment got me to thinking.

    In the Seneca wet compartment - there's the dump connection
    in the compartment (against the back wall). I've assumed that
    you're supposed to run a short hose from that connection to
    the pipe connection (next to the door). Then a long hose (15')
    from the pipe to the dump station.

    Now I tried to run my dump hose (stinky slinky) from the internal connection in the wet compartment straight to the dump station. It didn't work so good, the lip at the compartment door meant I was had about a foot or two of hose with black/grey water in it that I couldn't get up/and over the lip without unhooking and spilling it. Sooo, I was doing the stinky slinky dance trying to not have a spill.

    Then I went ahead and ran a short hose (12" to 18") from the internal connection to that pipe connection close to the door. Used a normal, clear bayonet connector from the internal connection (against the wall) to used a 90 degree elbow to hook the hose to the pipe that exits the compartment. Where the pipe exits I use another 90 degree connector (since it fits) to run the hose to the dump station. However, I still get a bit of water stuck in the short hose between the first connection (by the back wall) and the second connection (where it enters the pipe) in the wet compartment.

    Am I doing something wrong or just being overly concerned about the cup of water that I'm spilling at the end of the dump evolution.

    Regards, Glenn

    Re: Sanitizing the fresh water tank

    Reply #14 –
    Yahoo Message Number: 2620
    Kevin,

    We live in the mountains in northern New Mexico and we can get hard
    freezes from October through April. We usually use the RV a couple of
    times during this period. So, I switched to using air pressure to clear
    the lines. I find it easier just to grab the portable compressor when
    we get home and I don't have to clean the lines to use the RV. Still
    need anti-freeze for the p-traps. Two years and no problems so far.

    David

    , "Kevin \(Real\) McCoy"
    wrote:
    Quote
    I have a 2006 Jayco Seneca 34 SS.

    I know, I know – its Texas, so why did I winterize? Well, I
    just like

    Quote
    being able to sleep if we get a cold snap. So after carefully
    draining,

    Quote
    bypassing the hot water heater, and removing the water filter (using
    the bypass hose)… it took about 3 gallons of Non-Toxic RV antifreeze
    to make

    Quote
    sure every line and p trap was filled. After having done it though -
    I would love to hear from folks that have done air pressure, how they
    did it,

    Re: Stinky Slinky Dance

    Reply #15 –
    Yahoo Message Number: 2621
    Glenn -

    I have an '08 Seneca and this one came with a section of pipe that is below the wet compartment. My solution is a clear 90 off the sewer connection to a 5 foot hose extension that runs down through the floor of the compartment through the PVC pipe. When I hook up, I remove the plug on the PVC pipe under the compartment and hook my hose up to the short extension. I keep the extension hooked up at all times.

    I know pics would help, but I am 4 hours away from the rig this week.

    Sam

    From: cggunte
    To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
    Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 10:34:22 PM
    Subject: [KodiakChassisClassC] Stinky Slinky Dance

    I was looking at Kevin's email/post about water tank sanitization
    and the picture of his wet compartment got me to thinking.

    In the Seneca wet compartment - there's the dump connection
    in the compartment (against the back wall). I've assumed that
    you're supposed to run a short hose from that connection to
    the pipe connection (next to the door). Then a long hose (15')
    from the pipe to the dump station.

    Now I tried to run my dump hose (stinky slinky) from the internal connection in the wet compartment straight to the dump station. It didn't work so good, the lip at the compartment door meant I was had about a foot or two of hose with black/grey water in it that I couldn't get up/and over the lip without unhooking and spilling it. Sooo, I was doing the stinky slinky dance trying to not have a spill.

    Then I went ahead and ran a short hose (12" to 18") from the internal connection to that pipe connection close to the door. Used a normal, clear bayonet connector from the internal connection (against the wall) to used a 90 degree elbow to hook the hose to the pipe that exits the compartment. Where the pipe exits I use another 90 degree connector (since it fits) to run the hose to the dump station. However, I still get a bit of water stuck in the short hose between the first connection (by the back wall) and the second connection (where it enters the pipe) in the wet compartment.

    Am I doing something wrong or just being overly concerned about the cup of water that I'm spilling at the end of the dump evolution.

    Regards, Glenn

    Re: Stinky Slinky Dance

    Reply #16 –
    Yahoo Message Number: 2622
    Attachments :

      So, trying something new this year. Here are some shots that I think are similar to what Sam was talking about. (Minus the 90 degree clear junction.)
      I used to use the Easy slip system - but the knobs for the winding hose holders are too large to fit through the storage pipe. I am just tired of screwing them on and off, plus it works havoc on the hose. The Rhinoflex has a similar issue with big plastic fins that prevent it from being stored in the storage pipe as well.

      Easy Slip Connector
      My plan this year is to switch to the EZ Connector system. They seem to use very heavy duty hoses, and since the hose is semi permanent the fact that the connectors spin is great to keep the hose from stresses and kinking. The best part is that the EZ Connectors fit in the storage pipe, with a hose cap! In this shot you can see how the EZ Connector fits in the storage pipe with a Valterra hose cap, then the pipe end screws on to hold everything in place.

      Hose in storage pipe
      To make sure the EZ connector had a firm connect to the heavy duty hose I used Epoxy, being careful not to get any on the spinning plastic joint. I think they make screw on connectors, but this seemed cheaper. Time will tell. The epoxy set in 7 minutes but I gave it a day before use.

      Epoxy set up on EZ coupler connection

      Here is the connection to the Rig

      Final Set Up
      If you need further distance you add an extension, and then you really are at Sam's solution. Does that help?

      Kevin (06 Jayco Seneca HD 34 SS)

      center
      From: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com [mailto:KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Sam Houston
      Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 7:14 AM
      To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [KodiakChassisClassC] Stinky Slinky Dance

      left

      Re: Stinky Slinky Dance

      Reply #17 –
      Yahoo Message Number: 2623
      Kevin & Sam,

      That helps a lot, a whole lot. It was driving
      me up the wall.

      Regards, Glenn


      Re: Stinky Slinky Dance

      Reply #18 –
      Yahoo Message Number: 2625
      Keviin -

      Thanks for adding pictures to my post :-)

      I use the EZ coupler 5 foot extension, but unlike your storage pipe, mine will not allow the coupler through the pipe so I had to remove one end, insert the hose, then replace the end. It will go in far enough that I can cap the pipe though.

      I then use a Rhinoflex 5' or 15' hose with swivle connectors for the extension to sewer pipe run.

      Sam

      From: Kevin (Real) McCoy
      To: KodiakChassisClassC@yahoogroups.com
      Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 1:08:11 PM
      Subject: RE: [KodiakChassisClassC] Stinky Slinky Dance


      So, trying something new this year. Here are some shots that I think are similar to what Sam was talking about. (Minus the 90 degree clear junction.)
      I used to use the Easy slip system - but the knobs for the winding hose holders are too large to fit through the storage pipe. I am just tired of screwing them on and off, plus it works havoc on the hose. The Rhinoflex has a similar issue with big plastic fins that prevent it from being stored in the storage pipe as well.

      Easy Slip Connector
      My plan this year is to switch to the EZ Connector system. They seem to use very heavy duty hoses, and since the hose is semi permanent the fact that the connectors spin is great to keep the hose from stresses and kinking. The best part is that the EZ Connectors fit in the storage pipe, with a hose cap! In this shot you can see how the EZ Connector fits in the storage pipe with a Valterra hose cap, then the pipe end screws on to hold everything in place.

      Hose in storage pipe
      To make sure the EZ connector had a firm connect to the heavy duty hose I used Epoxy, being careful not to get any on the spinning plastic joint. I think they make screw on connectors, but this seemed cheaper. Time will tell. The epoxy set in 7 minutes but I gave it a day before use.

      Epoxy set up on EZ coupler connection

      Here is the connection to the Rig

      Final Set Up
      If you need further distance you add an extension, and then you really are at Sam's solution. Does that help?

      Kevin (06 Jayco Seneca HD 34 SS)

      From: KodiakChassisClassC @yahoogroups. com [mailto:KodiakChass isClassC@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of Sam Houston
      Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 7:14 AM
      To: KodiakChassisClassC @yahoogroups. com
      Subject: Re: [KodiakChassisClass C] Stinky Slinky Dance




      Glenn -


      I have an '08 Seneca and this one came with a section of pipe that is below the wet compartment. My solution is a clear 90 off the sewer connection to a 5 foot hose extension that runs down through the floor of the compartment through the PVC pipe. When I hook up, I remove the plug on the PVC pipe under the compartment and hook my hose up to the short extension. I keep the extension hooked up at all times.


      I know pics would help, but I am 4 hours away from the rig this week.


      Sam

      From: cggunte
      To: KodiakChassisClassC @yahoogroups. com
      Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 10:34:22 PM
      Subject: [KodiakChassisClass C] Stinky Slinky Dance

      I was looking at Kevin's email/post about water tank sanitization
      and the picture of his wet compartment got me to thinking.

      In the Seneca wet compartment - there's the dump connection
      in the compartment (against the back wall). I've assumed that
      you're supposed to run a short hose from that connection to
      the pipe connection (next to the door). Then a long hose (15')
      from the pipe to the dump station.

      Now I tried to run my dump hose (stinky slinky) from the internal connection in the wet compartment straight to the dump station. It didn't work so good, the lip at the compartment door meant I was had about a foot or two of hose with black/grey water in it that I couldn't get up/and over the lip without unhooking and spilling it. Sooo, I was doing the stinky slinky dance trying to not have a spill.

      Then I went ahead and ran a short hose (12" to 18") from the internal connection to that pipe connection close to the door. Used a normal, clear bayonet connector from the internal connection (against the wall) to used a 90 degree elbow to hook the hose to the pipe that exits the compartment. Where the pipe exits I use another 90 degree connector (since it fits) to run the hose to the dump station. However, I still get a bit of water stuck in the short hose between the first connection (by the back wall) and the second connection (where it enters the pipe) in the wet compartment.

      Am I doing something wrong or just being overly concerned about the cup of water that I'm spilling at the end of the dump evolution.

      Regards, Glenn